acid etch or POR 15

[jtparr]

in a state of deliberation here and wondered if anyone has any opinions about this subject

am in the process of stripping the car of its underbody protection and want to make sure that I replace with the best and most durable protection, as i intend to keep the car

simply speaking which is the best, 2 coats of the POR 15 system or acid etching prior to a full spray of a new ruberised/stone chip system

I am working on the car in small areas at a time, hot air blower and scraper, then a wire brush or sand blaster to clean it up and remove surface rust, probably then clean off with thinners before painting

Am going to strip the entire body bit by bit prior to having the metalwork repairs done, and as the rusty metalwork is replaced it can be protected bit by bit to match whatever I do in the first place

have done the fuel tank with POR 15, its easy to brush on, it gets small but positive reviews so am tempted to do the full car


any thoughts ?

[lewis]

I have used por 15 and will probably go over that with stonechip. as for stripping the old underseal if the tank is out, use a blowtorch I fully stripped mine in less than half a day (not the paint) you dont need an agresive amount of heat just enough so that it starts to burn,hot air guns dont push out enough heat. Keep a small fire extinguisher handy, that goes for both, just in case.

lewis

[haasad]

I'm going through the same process but have completed all the welding.
Acid etch will give great adhesion to ongoing systems but is very expensive in small volumes (cans) and is hard on your health to spray you really need to use air fed hoods.

I am not familiar with POR 15 and would be interested in information about it.

Normally I strip back to bare metal brush on a coat of Kurust, neutralise then hand paint two coats of industrial red oxide. This is followed up with two coats Stoneguard available in black or white. Then final body colour. It is perfectly practical to hand paint all these inaccesible areas but don't forget that you must seam seal ALL joints with paint on or gunable sealer as soon as its been Kurusted.

Finish off after you've refitted everything with a spray of Waxoyl.

Works for me!!

andy

[jtparr]

thanks for the replies


lewis
might just try a blow torch, after a few hours on my back under the car my arms ache like f**k and I've still got the wings to do


haasad
log onto frost at

http://www.frost.co.uk/

they are suppliers of all sorts of thngs and UK agents for the POR 15 range

I first came across the POR range on pelican, the guys in the states seem to rave about it

thanks

jonathan

[lewis]

few hours on my back under the car my arms ache like f**k

if you are working under the car make sure you are wearing goggles and a good pair of gloves, hot bitchumen is F#####g hot and will stick to your skin, best to have long sleeves as well.

lewis

[veryporky]

Hmmm!! After much deliberation I used the POR metal ready for prepping the bare panels prior to painting. I did not like the idea of hosing it off with water though. Consulted their tech help in the states who said you can remove it with thinners so long as you use ordinary body primers over the top. The POR 15 reacts with the thinners. I am just finishing the underbody off in the same way.

[jtparr]

Keith

did you ever think of just putting the POR 15 directly onto the metal, doing without the metal ready treatment ?

I think I'll do a bit of a test but I would have thought that their own brand thinners should be fine with the POR 15 ??

regards

Jonathan

[veryporky]

Hi Jonathan,

No I did not. The metal ready was so easy to apply I just went ahead and did it.