Engine compartment panels 58 A

[RoscoP]

Hi Folks,
Another dumb question from yours truly, all being well the engine will be going back into my 58A next week and I need to know whether the 2 L shaped panels that fasten to the shelf in the engine bay have to be attached before the lump is fitted or after?
Thank you for listening.
Ross

[neilbardsley]

Are these the panels flywheel end or exhaust end? If exhaust end they can be added after the engine is in

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[RoscoP]

Hi Neil,
No, theyre the 2 panels that bolt into each side of the engine bay and they meet at the back of the engine bay to form a shelf....I think later cars may have had them welded in? they are roughly L shaped.

[RoscoP]

Just looked at Roger Brays site, the panels are labelled S164B and the description is "Engine shelf T1 T2"

[roy mawbey]

Rosco,
On my late 59A T2 those 2 plates have never been removed by me. I have had the engine out a number of times in 50 years and never had any problem getting it in and out. So if they are bolted I see no reason why you would need to move them unless they are rusted out? I have never looked that closely at mine but its possible they are welded in. I guess if you have to replace them it might be easier if the they are bolted in to have space to do that.

Always something that comes up on a 356 I am not entirely sure about !!

Roy

[roy mawbey]

Rosco,
On my late 59A T2 those 2 plates have never been removed by me. I have had the engine out a number of times in 50 years and never had any problem getting it in and out. So if they are bolted I see no reason why you would need to move them unless they are rusted out? I have never looked that closely at mine but its possible they are welded in. I guess if you have to replace them it might be easier if the they are bolted in to have space to do that.

Always something that comes up on a 356 I am not entirely sure about !!

Roy

[RoscoP]

Hi Roy,
Yes I believe that they were welded in on the 59 A's in preparation for the t5B model, however the early T2's and all the T1's had bolted in panels....please someone correct me if I'm wrong!
From what you've said it seems like the panels should be in place prior to putting the engine in so I'll try that!
I'll let you know what happens, engine should be going back in in the next 2 weeks after 6 years! No wonder I've forgotten where everything goes!
Thank you for listening!
Rosco

[S.J.Szabo]

Mr.P:

Yes, it's customary to do the engine in/out with the 2pc. apron in place.

That doesn't mean it's not tricky tho. It starts with clearing the carbs, and finishes (if the car is old enough) with the pre-heat funnels.

I like to use a floor jack with a lift dish that lets me do a little strategic rocking during the lift/drop. Without the luxury of a personal lift, the angle one gets with one pair of jackstands is necessary to get that rascal out from under the car, but this means that one must take care with the angle of approach/withdrawal to the output shaft.

It'll be fun once you get the hang of it.

[RoscoP]

S.J.
Sounds like a whole lot of fun, I've replaced the zeniths with a pair of IDF webers c/w K&N air filters so I'm hoping that it doesn't compromise clearance even more!
But knowing my luck, it probably will!
Thank you for listening!
RoscoP.

[S.J.Szabo]

Well, of course, the air cleaners will have to make the trip separately; the carbs will make it tho (and I too use IDFs).

And you'll have to mind any fuel hard lines, etc. Don't forget the lines/linkage at the front of the housing; it's a bear to work them after insertion.

Then there is the matter of the top two bell housing bolts. They should be in place (with a little protrusion) as you begin. As you get lined up (but before you close), one can shinny them out with your fingers, or slide them out from the back. You can insert the bottom two once the engine is in place (still on the jack).

Getting the nuts started is not too bad, as there is usually just enough "hold" to get them going. It's the snug up that can be a challenge, especially the right side next to the starter.

Now, some folks have special ways of doing this; the easy favorite is to drill the head for a right-angle (to the bolt axis) roll pin, with some modified wrench as a second.

I've always had good luck with a regular box, but maybe it's a quirk of the car. Much of the time, there is enough "stiction" on the bolt to snug it without working the bolt head.

When done, the sense of accomplishment is palpable.

[RoscoP]

Jeez,
I might angle grind the back end off and fix it back on with dzus fasteners!
........Only joking!!


Thank you for listening
RoscoP