Sound Deadening

mdmax72 · Post by **mdmax72** » Sun Mar 20, 2011 8:38 pm

Anyone used any sound deadening material eg Dyno Mat or other ?? Since I've fitted the hood you here everything from the rear when out and about. The doors also sound very hollow, no thud when shutting. I know it's fibreglass but I've heard other fibreglass doors shutting sound solid.

bonerp · Post by **bonerp** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 9:07 am

I'm using some cheap sticky back closed cell foam stuff off the bay Rich and just lagging it inside the doors and around the battery box - any hollow area. I may even apply some over the rear seating area before I send it to Gary for finishing.

However the sticky is rubbish and is peeling off. Not sure what to use to glue it back on permanently as I don't want the adhesive to bleed through the paint....

smallspeed · Post by **smallspeed** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 11:17 am

my daily car has additional sound deadening on all doors, bootlid, and the side pannels in the rear. I'm going to be removing the headlining in the next couple of months to remove and sort out the roof rails, and will do the inside of the roof at the same time. I'd like to do the wheel arches at some point but that can wait for the time being

i've used a combination of brownbread and dynamat as the vibration damping layer (I had some of each lying around from other projects hence the mix and match). There's not a big difference between the two in terms of performance, and there are other options available at higher and lower cost. Its pretty basic stuff really so as long as you get something that sticks well and apply it properly it will make a big difference. This doesn't mean you can use lead flashing from B&Q; it doesn't stick very well and it doesn't perform anywhere near as well either

If you're applying to anything other than flat pannels make sure you pick up a roller; the more contact you get between the pannel and the dampening material the better, and a roller REALLY helps sticking it down around creases and shapes in the pannels!
This layer basically stops pannel vibration and noise transmission from the outside of the vehicle

I've covered the dampening with a layer of silent coat noise isolator 8, which is a foam layer to absorb internal noises. This helps with reducing sounds bouncing around inside the vehicle. Its very light and does a great job of deadening the interior. There are quite a few other options available (inc different thicknesses) but I think thats the best balance of cost vs. performance.

There are also additional layers available for putting behind door cards, under carpets, etc., etc., which all help reduce rattles and road noises too, but I've not gone that far; I'm not building an ear-bleeding sound system or entering competitions, but having additional sound deadening really does help make the most of what you've already got, and i'm planning on keeping this car for a while so though it was worth the £100 and a weekend fiddling

I've brought most of the stuff I've used recently from http://www.deadening.co.uk who are not necessarilly the cheapest on some products, but offer a decent range of everything and have always delivered pretty quickly; getting everything in one go is more beneficial to me than saving 2-3 quid as a trip to the post office to collect a package that arrives in the week costs me more than that anyway

Switch3sixty · Post by **Switch3sixty** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 2:32 pm

I've given a couple of my mates some carpet underlay to use in their vw beetles and it works a treat.

The best stuff to use, that we've found, is the new foam type that they now make rather than the ubber stuff that'll break down over the years as it drys out.

Do a search for "Cloud9" of Seventh Heaven(i think), as it might be a cheaper way to go. I can get 15 Sq Metres of the stuff for about £45 so more than enough for quite a few cars!

Or i might have some small bits spare floating about

Am going to do my '67 Bay Double Door panel in it this/next week too.

Anton
07775 527283

oliver365 · Post by **oliver365** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 9:33 pm

I know Smallspeed said not to use lead type flashing ! but I have ! rolls of it ! apply it with a hair dryer or hot air gun & its worked a treat I also put it on floor pans & then 2 layers of 1"felt underlay before carpets ! added weight is also good for better ride

ims101 · Post by **ims101** » Tue Mar 22, 2011 7:43 pm

Rich, glad to hear you've got ur hood on, is that why the suns come out?

Sorry I've got no advice whatsoever on this topic but will watch with interest as the noise from my rear is quite loud

mdmax72 · Post by **mdmax72** » Tue Mar 22, 2011 7:59 pm

Yes got it on, though not 100% happy. Though it would be a straight forward job. Still need to do a few mods to the frame.

Ordered some Dyna mat and it came today. A friend used the flashband and regreted it. So thought only want to do it once and went the Dynamat route, hopefully it'll pay of. Blooding heavy stuff though for what it is.

I did the floors with sound deadening when l did the chassis so that's one less job. Will use it in the front bulkhead, doors and the engine bulkhead( behind the seats etc).

Ian I'm jealous your doing the ddk tour, maybe next year or two when the kids are abit older. Are you taking the Mrs??

ims101 · Post by **ims101** » Tue Mar 22, 2011 9:32 pm

Rich, it's classic Le Mans next year

No the wife isn't going. I did ask her but for some strange reason she didn't want to. She keeps saying it's going to cost me tho

Let me know how good the Dyna mat is I might have to invest

smallspeed · Post by **smallspeed** » Wed Mar 23, 2011 11:34 am

check out brownbread and the other variants on the deadening website i posted a link to above too; its about 1/2 - 2/3 the price of dynamat depending on which you go for and they all work well... just don't like lead flashing as you have to heat it up to make it stick and i'm reluctant to do that on thin skins of bodywork especially

If you do the bulkheads its also worth putting some of that foam or underlay ontop of the dynamat as it really helps killl the airbourne noise.. ian, if you're getting loud noise from your rear you might want to try some of this down the back of your shorts

mdmax72 · Post by **mdmax72** » Wed Mar 23, 2011 6:41 pm

Started on the doors as they are the easiest to get to, doing the inner door aswell as the back of the door skin to give it a heavy clunk sound. You can just make out the two in the picture. That's the aim anyway. One door down and one to go. What a differance it makes. Now sounds like my old Audi did. Closes with a thud.

Thanks for your input, will get some of the foam to stop the airborne sounds to for the bulkheads.

Will keep you upto date.

kitchens · Post by **kitchens** » Wed Mar 23, 2011 7:47 pm

Rich
Where did you get the matting from? and how much ?and what are the sheet size ?

Brian

mdmax72 · Post by **mdmax72** » Thu Mar 24, 2011 10:59 pm

Brian the best price for the Dyna Mat Extreme bulk pack was £140 from eBay with shipping. The sheet sizes are 18"x36" and you get 9 sheets. Alot of other makes on eBay to but like l said before only want to do this job once and to me Dyna Mat is the dogs ballocks.

ger · Post by **ger** » Thu Mar 24, 2011 11:41 pm

Adding weight deadens sound and kills vibration in larger panels.......I added properly applied, (with heat), flashband...it stays stuck. It gets a bad rep from folks Max power types who know little about the use of the product in the building industry....They think that the regular backing is sticky enough... its not, it needs heating with blowtorch or heatgun

Its an open car FFS ! whatever soundproofing you use is not going to make an amazing difference

Captain Ahab Jr · Post by **Captain Ahab Jr** » Fri Mar 25, 2011 12:00 am

We used the very same stuff on the McLaren F1 road car, its the best, lb for lb nothing works better for reducing the drumming noise interior panels make.

Stevie B · Post by **Stevie B** » Fri Mar 25, 2011 3:54 pm

if using flashband always apply bitumen primer, let the primer dry and the flashband will stick like poo to a blanket.