What's the story with door skins?

[RobFrost]

Doors cleaned up ready for paint on my 1970 911T, but they say there's rust in the seams (they're right) and the only way to guarantee they don't rust, is to separate the skins from the doors.






Trouble is, there are so many spot welds down the front edge that only one side can be saved. The entire edge of the skin would have to be cut off.

Am I setting myself up for a world of pain replacing the door skins? Do the replacements fit well, and does it matter which one you buy?


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[stretch]

I would buy decent replacement doors if possible, easier said than done though. Be prepared to do lead work on the edges of the front and rear quarters if you do replace the skins.I have no experience of the steel variety, but would assume that genuine Porsche door skins are the way to go. What is the door carcass like for rust.? Good luck.

[Gary71]

Can of worms…

You could buy later galvanised doors from a 993 or 964. This is what I have on my car and they require very little modification, mainly mirror holes and depending on how fussy on originality you are a few extra holes closing up.

[911hillclimber]

Can of snakes and ladders!
I re skinned by ‘73 T doors in 1989.
I used Dansk items, I was told the first set in the UK.
Evil fit.
I also had to replace both door bottoms.
Very tricky job due to matching the wings and sill, Dansk again.

Hard work, but got there in the end. I compromised on panel gaps which has haunted me ever since.
Dansk parts are probably much better now.

[coomo]

Just finished body resto on this 72.I had the same dilema.Irrespective of condition of the skin,any 30 year old plus 911 door,will have corrosion on the inner frame that connects to the skin.This one had one tiny pinhole, which is very tempting just to weld up.However, just a matter of time before it breaks through elsewhere.
Fortunately a lower skin panel is available.Its still a lot of fettling to get it fitted, but easier than a whole skin.