Under cover Resto

[hashman]

Thanks guys.
I wish I could get some help in the garage sometimes from my kids but they are not in the slightest bit interested.
They are probably fed up with all my bad dad jokes.
I sanded the flywheel smooth where the seal will fit to help avoid any oil leakage.

20230929_180632 by karlhash, on Flickr

Then it was con rods onto crank with new nuts.
Mixed up some special Maestro sauce of STP and oil and used Lucas assembly lube too.

20230930_200055 by karlhash, on Flickr

Case halves together and Hylomar sealant in between. I bolted it up to the correct torque setting in stages but with out the case bolt oil seals. I went round putting the seals in individually, afterwards.
I guess I used a little too much case sealant as it squeezed out too much for my liking. I didn't fancy any of the wiggly worms of sealant falling off inside the case and then blocking up the oil ways. so I managed to
scrape it all out. surgeon style with a thin metal rod.

20231001_184738 by karlhash, on Flickr

20231003_183354 by karlhash, on Flickr

20231003_191737 by karlhash, on Flickr

It all came away with only a couple of pieces falling and needing to be scooped out.
When I took the case studs off individually to put the seals in, I put oil on them to aid the tightening process avoiding any torn seals.
They all went well until the last one of course. Once the last one was tightened to full torque I noticed a little piece of seal sticking out from under the washer, so two new ones ordered.
Its very annoying though, that when you look on company websites and price up two tiny rubber rings for a few quid they then stick on £6 postage when they would just go in an envelope.
Oh well I mustn't complain.

Thanks
Karl

[neilbardsley]

Good work the key must of been nerve wrecking. Thank crank isn't cheap to replace and has probably doubled in price since you bought it!

Sent from my 22011119UY using Tapatalk

[hashman]

Absolutely Niel, I think it took me soooo long to remove the key because of my fear of damaging the crank.
Slowly, slowly, catchy monkey.

Next I put the crank case through bolts and acorn nuts on with the washers but without the o rings, so as to torque the case down without damaging the o rings.
I went round after they were all the correct torque and put the o rings in individually. I oiled them up to aid fitting without tearing them.
It all went according to plan until I came to last one .

20231006_155034 by karlhash, on Flickr

20231006_152336 by karlhash, on Flickr

20231006_144220 by karlhash, on Flickr

I found some spare o rings that I kept attempting with but to no avail.

After asking on 356 registry and getting the usual brilliant advice, I think my problem is my washer is too thin because I have cleaned the surfaces of it too much.
I have some smaller o rings I will try but I think a new washer is what is needed.

Thanks
Karl

[hashman]

So, I got a new washer, put a new o ring on and

20231022_121731 by karlhash, on Flickr

pants, time for a re assess. I looked at the surface of the case and thought it looked a bit rough, so tried to smooth it as best as I could.
This is the rough surface

20231022_105100 by karlhash, on Flickr

Then I looked at the stud diameter and decided to reduce that a little to.

20231022_125119 by karlhash, on Flickr

I used a slightly smaller oil proof o ring this time and viola!

20231023_194424 by karlhash, on Flickr

In this build so far the smallest things have been the biggest problems.

I had already put the third piece on along with the distributor but realised that when putting on the new full flow pump cover I need to make sure the oil pump gears run smoothly together when turned by hand, so I had to take it all off.

pump gears in

20231022_191908 by karlhash, on Flickr

gasket modified and tighten cover up progressively making sure the gears still turn nicely. I did have to change the gears positions a couple of times before it felt good.

20231022_195823 by karlhash, on Flickr

Then third piece on again, hopefully for good this time.

20231023_194358 by karlhash, on Flickr

Thanks
Karl

[Gary71]

Coming together beautifully Karl

That bolt v O ring is a classic ‘It’s just one bolt, how hard can it be’ scenario. Three hours later…

[roy mawbey]

Well done that was a good progress report and great photos to back it up. So true its expensive to order a small individual item like an 'O' ring ! I now find I add some other service parts to somehow offset the amount.

Good conclusion on sorting that problem out so well.

Roy

[hashman]

Just a quick update today.
Tried the barrels into the case and a couple the acorn nuts interfere with the fins on the barrels, so a quick grinding and job done.

20231028_162357 by karlhash, on Flickr

20231028_162426 by karlhash, on Flickr

20231028_165120 by karlhash, on Flickr

20231028_165157 by karlhash, on Flickr

Thanks
Karl

[hashman]

First post for the year.
Its been a while so, a little update is due.
What I have been doing has taken its time and I kept doing it in little bits over Christmas.
I have been addressing the heads and the need to cut the cone shape a bit deeper into them because they have been fly cut before.
This is needed because apparently a secondary combustion area can be created at the edge of the piston causing the rings to fail.
The full extent of the issue can be found here on the 912 Registry forum.
https://www.912bbs.org/forum/threads/pr ... ber.60211/
Because I don't have the use of big machinery to cut the heads, I made a smaller wooden version of the cutter that I could attach sand paper to and work by hand.
This is why it took me so long, because sanding aluminium is hard enough and going carefully enough to make sure the geometry stayed correct made it worse.
I didn't go as far as the theory suggests you should, but I cut enough to bring back the original dimension of the head.
First I stuck the barrels into the head and drew a line around the inside onto the head.

20231029_170212 by karlhash, on Flickr

So ideally i would have cut all the way to the outside edge of the black line but that would have taken forever and I was wary of cutting too much material and rendering the heads useless.

20231029_162522 by karlhash, on Flickr

20231029_171101 by karlhash, on Flickr

I made a little wooden block to hold the sand paper at the correct 30 degrees

20240120_164725 by karlhash, on Flickr

And after hours of sanding I cut it back to the edge of the black line. It wasn't to far off at first sight, but had definite gaps in places. I was checking the circumference with a vernier gauge as I went around.

20231230_173940 by karlhash, on Flickr

So now I have to re measure the volumes of each combustion chamber and match them up again.......such fun

Karl

[hashman]

Bonjour
Slow progress report.....
I rematched the combustion chambers so they are all now 61.2ml

20240204_172041 by karlhash, on Flickr

Measured all the barrel heights...OK.

20240215_143159 by karlhash, on Flickr

Cleaned all the brand new rocker arms from Porsche....disgusting, although they looked clean.

20240213_151531 by karlhash, on Flickr

Put the pistons on the con rods making sure the snap ring is oriented correctly and put paper towel over the openings of the case , just in case the snap ring decided to jump out in the installation process.

20240219_174031 by karlhash, on Flickr

20240219_174114 by karlhash, on Flickr

I measured the deck height with solder and the valve to piston gap with Plastacine.


20240224_182019 by karlhash, on Flickr

I put the barrels on with 0.25mm copper gaskets......I had been toying with the idea of going with out the copper gaskets to up the compression ratio and have a tight quench, but reasoned that for the slight performance gain, I think I would rather go with bigger spaces and a more reliable street driven engine.

So then I put the lovely new spring loaded pushrod tubes from PRS Services in and the heads on, but that became problematic. The pushrod tubes would not compress to allow the studs to protrude through the head enough for the nuts to catch a thread.......Aargh!
After a bit of thinking and looking and removing I could see the problem was the holes in the case for the tubes to sit in had casting burrs.
So after trying to think away round this , I decided to bite the bullet and file them down leaving filings in my brand new case with brand new bearings.
I cleaned the filings away as diligently as I could, and cleaned and cleaned and....you get the picture.

burr under red line
20240314_174831 by karlhash, on Flickr

filed down
20240301_183627 by karlhash, on Flickr

This wasn't a problem with the original pushrod tubes because they are much thinner walled compared the PRS tubes.

20240302_155745 by karlhash, on Flickr

I didn't forget the air deflectors
The picture shows the spring clip not sitting correctly , i did correct that.

20240301_153248 by karlhash, on Flickr

I tightened up the heads incrementally on both sides and not one head then the other, as has been described by those who know better than I. I also
left them over night and rechecked the torque values and I did find a couple of nuts went a bit more.

I put one shim under the the rocker stand to help with the valve adjustment, as I noted on disassembly that the adjusting screws were sticking too far out the top of the rocker arms.

20240303_115449 by karlhash, on Flickr

I used VW link pin shims 0.5mm thickness for that and the best price I found was from Alan Scholfield.
you need to have two threads of the adjuster sticking out the bottom of the rocker and I still didnt have it so I used another shim.

20240305_153900 by karlhash, on Flickr

two shims
20240306_151453 by karlhash, on Flickr

I have enough threads out the bottom now to allow the oil ways to line up and let oil pass to the rocker shafts.
20240305_194024 by karlhash, on Flickr

I also glued in some metal lined rocker cover gaskets also from PRS Services.

20240305_153841 by karlhash, on Flickr

I went to install all the rocker arms and just one of the wavy washers that fits in that lot went and cracked so now I'm waiting on some washers to arrive.
Once again a little thing holding me up, but I dont mind it that way round.

Thanks for reading folks. Hopefully I'll get it running this year. I have missed not driving it since lock down.

Karl

[Hugo 356]

Great progress Karl, thanks for sharing

I think glue is optional with the sandwich gaskets as the steel insert keeps them located

[sladey]

Nice detailed work

[Gary71]

Love this kind of detail. Thanks for sharing

[roy mawbey]

There is a lot of time involved in preparing all these assembly hints and all the photo's. You don't always get full information from books or manuals. Well done on your effort you really are trying your best to get the result you want.

Thanks for doing that !!

Roy

[Winston Teague]

Great stuff Karl, really enjoyable read. I'm curious about the rocker cover gaskets, is there a metal insert in them, to hold their shape? W

[hashman]

Thanks Hugo, Gary, Sladey and Roy.
Hugo I like to glue the rocker gaskets in so when you pull the covers for maintenance, both the gasket and cover come away as one making it easier to avoid an oily mess.... or less of an oily mess
Roy, I have learnt so much from reading other peoples posts, so the least I can do is pass on my experiences, in the hope it may help someone else. Or at least I hope it can.

When bolting down the rocker shafts, I noticed a few arched spacers were starting to crack. Luckily I had some spare from the second hand rocker assemblies I had previously bought.

20240213_142049 by karlhash, on Flickr

I also found that these top hats had lost their roundness in the vertical holes, from being compressed when bolted down. I filed them to rectify this which made putting the whole rocker shaft assembly on much easier, as it now does not snag on the threads.

20240303_185151 by karlhash, on Flickr

I got the pulley seal in today, using the endplay washer, the old knackered distributor drive gear a flywheel seal installation washer from Buttys Bits and the pulley nut.

20240316_160121 by karlhash, on Flickr

20240316_160445 by karlhash, on Flickr

Thanks for looking