Wot, not another '79 Targa resto thread
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- PeterK
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Re: Wot, not another '79 Targa resto thread
Thanks Wayne
I did consider putting an aerial on the targa bar, but will stay with a screen one for now
I did consider putting an aerial on the targa bar, but will stay with a screen one for now
'79 Targa - restoration now mainly complete & being driven
viewtopic.php?f=28&t=59756
viewtopic.php?f=28&t=59756
Re: Wot, not another '79 Targa resto thread
I used an antenna splitter on my motorhome (to avoid having to hide wires from the stick-on DAB antenna), which has the same type of antenna as our cars and works well. Might be worth considering...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07 ... UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07 ... UTF8&psc=1
Dean
1973T Targa MFI 334 met blu- under restoration https://www.ddk-online.com/phpBB2/viewt ... 28&t=67060
1980 924 Turbo, blu/grn tartan - restored
1973T Targa MFI 334 met blu- under restoration https://www.ddk-online.com/phpBB2/viewt ... 28&t=67060
1980 924 Turbo, blu/grn tartan - restored
- PeterK
- DDK rules my life!
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Re: Wot, not another '79 Targa resto thread
Thanks Dean
I don't have a standard aerial, so only adding DAB at this time.
I don't have a standard aerial, so only adding DAB at this time.
'79 Targa - restoration now mainly complete & being driven
viewtopic.php?f=28&t=59756
viewtopic.php?f=28&t=59756
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Re: Wot, not another '79 Targa resto thread
Sorry I wasn’t clear, it is a screen one Peter. It uses Kung Fu or some higher power to transmit through the screen from aerial to receiver unit. Here is the one on our motorhome. I think the model number was Kinetic Dega 4001PeterK wrote:Thanks Wayne
I did consider putting an aerial on the targa bar, but will stay with a screen one for now
Cheers
![Image](http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220523/f9e3d9e01907da1edf7d14c430cab521.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
93 964 C2
99 Boxster 2.5 > 2.7 hill climber
71 914/6 3.0 - gone
'You see Paul, hill climbing is like making love to a beautiful woman. You get your motor running, check your fluids, hang on tight and WHOA..30 seconds later it's all over!' Swiss Tony
99 Boxster 2.5 > 2.7 hill climber
71 914/6 3.0 - gone
'You see Paul, hill climbing is like making love to a beautiful woman. You get your motor running, check your fluids, hang on tight and WHOA..30 seconds later it's all over!' Swiss Tony
- PeterK
- DDK rules my life!
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Re: Wot, not another '79 Targa resto thread
My mistake, sorry.
From a google search they seem unfortunately sold out / not available. They're very well rated though, so I'll keep searching for one![salute :salute:](./images/smilies/icon_salut.gif)
From a google search they seem unfortunately sold out / not available. They're very well rated though, so I'll keep searching for one
![salute :salute:](./images/smilies/icon_salut.gif)
'79 Targa - restoration now mainly complete & being driven
viewtopic.php?f=28&t=59756
viewtopic.php?f=28&t=59756
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- DDK 1st, 2nd and 3rd for me!
- Posts: 2063
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Re: Wot, not another '79 Targa resto thread
No problem - they are brilliant, the 964 one even works in the garage with the door closed and a room above, nothing seems to disturb the signal. I also read up that head units can make quite a different level, depending on the investment in DAB - the Pioneer in the 964 is good in that respect. Good luck finding one - I have a great fat temporary mast on the 964 currently where I broke the thin one
93 964 C2
99 Boxster 2.5 > 2.7 hill climber
71 914/6 3.0 - gone
'You see Paul, hill climbing is like making love to a beautiful woman. You get your motor running, check your fluids, hang on tight and WHOA..30 seconds later it's all over!' Swiss Tony
99 Boxster 2.5 > 2.7 hill climber
71 914/6 3.0 - gone
'You see Paul, hill climbing is like making love to a beautiful woman. You get your motor running, check your fluids, hang on tight and WHOA..30 seconds later it's all over!' Swiss Tony
- PeterK
- DDK rules my life!
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Re: Wot, not another '79 Targa resto thread
So, it’s been a long time…… what have I been up to (other than more sailing and a quick week in Cornwall) ……
Well, I reset the Warm Up Regulator (WUR or control pressure regulator more accurately) pressures the week before last, but I couldn’t get the pressures I wanted for warm pressures with vacuum without maxing the warm pressure without vacuum. System pressure was also right at the top end of the allowable range. So I started tweaking again Tuesday.
For those that don’t recognise the engine bay view of an SC, the WUR is hidden under the left side fan pipework
![Image](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52150327462_6bd4191056_c.jpg)
So that had to go
![Image](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52151830810_4bda1f0433_c.jpg)
I connected the valve for the pressure gauge into the pipe from the fuel distributor to the WUR
![Image](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52151578604_ccbf656e8f_c.jpg)
And hung up my gauge
![Image](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52151347328_415f0f7a7f_c.jpg)
The WUR came out
![Image](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52151342311_87aae57b25_c.jpg)
And was dismantled
![Image](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52150327687_726e24a8e6_c.jpg)
The grey round bit (that I didn’t photograph very clearly) is the underside of the fuel connections. If this is drifted out of the body, warm control pressure reduces, and if it is drifted more inwards, they rise.
![Image](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52151347443_c24568980a_c.jpg)
The lower membrane is the bit that impacts the with vacuum warm control pressures. The kit that I bought to rebuild my WUR is somewhat universal. By using a hex key in the centre, you can adjust the warm control pressures with vacuum.
![Image](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52151347508_12b10d9378_c.jpg)
On the left end of the top of the WUR, where I have made my ‘adustability’ mods, is the top side of the post that the electrically heated element is attached.
![Image](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52151578919_5cb6209ca8_c.jpg)
By drifting the plug in, you lower the cold control pressure, and out for raising. I previously drilled and tapped an M5 hole. By tapping the top of the bolt, the plug goes inward and cold pressures drop. By holding the M5 bolt steady and winding down the M5 nut underneath, it pulls the plug up, increasing cold control pressures. The 2 M6 nuts and the washer are simply to raise the height of the M5 adjusting nut so that I can adjust in-situ.
You will also notice in this photo that I had removed the heated bar and electrical connection. Had I set the warm pressures with the cold compensator in place, I would have had to wait (probably overnight) for the WUR to cool down before testing the cold pressures, then repeat the warm pressure exercise (maybe with more adjustment).
I got over-excited (and just a little bored) here and forgot to take any further photos. However, having added a relay by-pass to run the fuel pump and removed the cold compensator, I refitted the WUR and checked system pressure. It was 5.1, which was just within the acceptable range of 4.5 – 5.2, with an adjusting target of 4.7 – 4.9. I had bought a set of washers so that I could set it right in the middle. However, when I pulled the pressure regulator out (it’s towards the rear on the rhs of the fuel distributor), I realised that I just needed to remove one of the existing washers, not add new ones. So, system pressure is now sitting nicely at 4.8b.
Warm pressures next, starting with the no vacuum. Target was 2.7 – 3.1 and it was sat at 3.1. So WUR out again and a bit of tappy tappy on the fuel connection area (from underneath). Refit, test, remove, more adjustment, refit, test, remove, adjust (in a bit, out a bit) etc ad nauseum, but finally, warm pressure 2.9.
Add vacuum and the warm pressure rose to about 3.1. Remove WUR, adjust the diaphragm bit, refit, retest, remove, readjust, etc, etc. The best I managed was 3.4, which is at the lower end (so running at the rich end on low engine vacuum scenarios, but better that than too lean) of the acceptable range of 3.4 – 3.8.
Remove WUR again, refit the cold compensator parts, drift the post out a bit (so that adjustments would all be tapping back in, with no need to strip the WUR again) and test cold pressures. Almost nothing, so tappy tappy and watch the needle on the gauge. Given the temperature, I needed to be in the range 1.65 – 2.05, and set it to 1.9.
Remove gauges, reattach the vacuum pipes to the WUR and turn the key. Blimey, it started and ran quite well. I took a blast around the big block and tweaked the mixture at tick-over – it still wasn’t far out from where I had set it last time. Having made it to the Fairmile meet last night
![Image](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52151347723_4f63ef922f_c.jpg)
I did notice that the revs dropped a little low when I had the electric aircon running and jumped off the throttle onto the brakes, so next time it’s warm, I’ll tweak the tick-over up a smidge.
Other news. I now have about 625 miles on the car, and it has developed a tendency to crash over bumps, not when moving at speed, but over short, sharp speed bumps and low speed pot holes. I had also noticed that the big washers on the tops of the front struts appear to have had an argument with the polybushes.
![Image](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52151831120_a977c41832_c.jpg)
Checking the parts manual shows a NLA spacer that I don’t have (part number 911 341 615 00). My thinking was that when I rebuilt the struts, the polybushes came with their own metal inner tube, so I might have thrown the original spacers away, and therefore might the polybushes now be sliding down the top of the inserts, rather than sitting on the shoulder of a spacer. What I needed was a load spreading washer to suit on the top of the strut insert and spread the load over the underside of the polybush.
DDK was down, so I popped a question on IB to see if anyone could give me details of the spacer’s size. No-one did, although Chris Taylor took a photo of his SC and I immediately twigged.
I now think that that spacer may have been for the US market, whereas my issue was the struts themselves, or more accurately, the dust cap / covers. My strut dust caps were so poor that I took the good advice from IB and had used the rubber dust caps from a Golf. As dust caps go, they're fine, but of course they don't spread the load across the base of the polybush like the originals do. Shame that I gave the old caps away - always wise after the event.
Anyone got a pair of dust caps knocking about ?
Anyway, I spent some time looking for a chunk of metal to make some load spreading spacers, but all I had in a suitable size was aluminium and I thought that that might not be strong enough. However, my top big, tabbed strut washers are looking a bit second-hand, so I’ve ordered a new pair. I then drilled the old ones out to use as load spreaders underneath.
A lathe does come in useful at times
![Image](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52151347738_64208ac92e_c.jpg)
My special washers, with an insert from a polybush.
![Image](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52151342796_7e9c1912cc_c.jpg)
I didn’t want to take the easy route and simply remove the strut top mount, as that would mess up my alignment. So, remove road wheel, undo the nut on the top of the strut, remove the front torsion adjuster bolt and compress the strut down, add spacer and reinsert strut in the polybush. Nothing torqued here.
![Image](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52151579119_ef306ddde6_c.jpg)
Then I added the big washer from the other side just to check, and look, no argument, all friends between the spacer and the polybush, even when not fully torqued down. Yes, I know that's not the correct locking tab washer, I just wanted to use a washer under the nut for testing. The strut also centred properly once the car was back done on its wheels.
![Image](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52150328077_05d9cc24ca_c.jpg)
So, repeat for other side, reset ride height and I’m now waiting for my new top washers (with new tab locking washers). Hopefully they will arrive on Monday, so that when I get back form sailing, I can fit the Tuesday morning before I go away sailing again. Once I get back from the Round the Island Race, I only have 2 days before I go to CLM, so I hope no new issuettes.
Well, I reset the Warm Up Regulator (WUR or control pressure regulator more accurately) pressures the week before last, but I couldn’t get the pressures I wanted for warm pressures with vacuum without maxing the warm pressure without vacuum. System pressure was also right at the top end of the allowable range. So I started tweaking again Tuesday.
For those that don’t recognise the engine bay view of an SC, the WUR is hidden under the left side fan pipework
![Image](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52150327462_6bd4191056_c.jpg)
So that had to go
![Image](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52151830810_4bda1f0433_c.jpg)
I connected the valve for the pressure gauge into the pipe from the fuel distributor to the WUR
![Image](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52151578604_ccbf656e8f_c.jpg)
And hung up my gauge
![Image](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52151347328_415f0f7a7f_c.jpg)
The WUR came out
![Image](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52151342311_87aae57b25_c.jpg)
And was dismantled
![Image](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52150327687_726e24a8e6_c.jpg)
The grey round bit (that I didn’t photograph very clearly) is the underside of the fuel connections. If this is drifted out of the body, warm control pressure reduces, and if it is drifted more inwards, they rise.
![Image](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52151347443_c24568980a_c.jpg)
The lower membrane is the bit that impacts the with vacuum warm control pressures. The kit that I bought to rebuild my WUR is somewhat universal. By using a hex key in the centre, you can adjust the warm control pressures with vacuum.
![Image](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52151347508_12b10d9378_c.jpg)
On the left end of the top of the WUR, where I have made my ‘adustability’ mods, is the top side of the post that the electrically heated element is attached.
![Image](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52151578919_5cb6209ca8_c.jpg)
By drifting the plug in, you lower the cold control pressure, and out for raising. I previously drilled and tapped an M5 hole. By tapping the top of the bolt, the plug goes inward and cold pressures drop. By holding the M5 bolt steady and winding down the M5 nut underneath, it pulls the plug up, increasing cold control pressures. The 2 M6 nuts and the washer are simply to raise the height of the M5 adjusting nut so that I can adjust in-situ.
You will also notice in this photo that I had removed the heated bar and electrical connection. Had I set the warm pressures with the cold compensator in place, I would have had to wait (probably overnight) for the WUR to cool down before testing the cold pressures, then repeat the warm pressure exercise (maybe with more adjustment).
I got over-excited (and just a little bored) here and forgot to take any further photos. However, having added a relay by-pass to run the fuel pump and removed the cold compensator, I refitted the WUR and checked system pressure. It was 5.1, which was just within the acceptable range of 4.5 – 5.2, with an adjusting target of 4.7 – 4.9. I had bought a set of washers so that I could set it right in the middle. However, when I pulled the pressure regulator out (it’s towards the rear on the rhs of the fuel distributor), I realised that I just needed to remove one of the existing washers, not add new ones. So, system pressure is now sitting nicely at 4.8b.
Warm pressures next, starting with the no vacuum. Target was 2.7 – 3.1 and it was sat at 3.1. So WUR out again and a bit of tappy tappy on the fuel connection area (from underneath). Refit, test, remove, more adjustment, refit, test, remove, adjust (in a bit, out a bit) etc ad nauseum, but finally, warm pressure 2.9.
Add vacuum and the warm pressure rose to about 3.1. Remove WUR, adjust the diaphragm bit, refit, retest, remove, readjust, etc, etc. The best I managed was 3.4, which is at the lower end (so running at the rich end on low engine vacuum scenarios, but better that than too lean) of the acceptable range of 3.4 – 3.8.
Remove WUR again, refit the cold compensator parts, drift the post out a bit (so that adjustments would all be tapping back in, with no need to strip the WUR again) and test cold pressures. Almost nothing, so tappy tappy and watch the needle on the gauge. Given the temperature, I needed to be in the range 1.65 – 2.05, and set it to 1.9.
Remove gauges, reattach the vacuum pipes to the WUR and turn the key. Blimey, it started and ran quite well. I took a blast around the big block and tweaked the mixture at tick-over – it still wasn’t far out from where I had set it last time. Having made it to the Fairmile meet last night
![Image](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52151347723_4f63ef922f_c.jpg)
I did notice that the revs dropped a little low when I had the electric aircon running and jumped off the throttle onto the brakes, so next time it’s warm, I’ll tweak the tick-over up a smidge.
Other news. I now have about 625 miles on the car, and it has developed a tendency to crash over bumps, not when moving at speed, but over short, sharp speed bumps and low speed pot holes. I had also noticed that the big washers on the tops of the front struts appear to have had an argument with the polybushes.
![Image](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52151831120_a977c41832_c.jpg)
Checking the parts manual shows a NLA spacer that I don’t have (part number 911 341 615 00). My thinking was that when I rebuilt the struts, the polybushes came with their own metal inner tube, so I might have thrown the original spacers away, and therefore might the polybushes now be sliding down the top of the inserts, rather than sitting on the shoulder of a spacer. What I needed was a load spreading washer to suit on the top of the strut insert and spread the load over the underside of the polybush.
DDK was down, so I popped a question on IB to see if anyone could give me details of the spacer’s size. No-one did, although Chris Taylor took a photo of his SC and I immediately twigged.
I now think that that spacer may have been for the US market, whereas my issue was the struts themselves, or more accurately, the dust cap / covers. My strut dust caps were so poor that I took the good advice from IB and had used the rubber dust caps from a Golf. As dust caps go, they're fine, but of course they don't spread the load across the base of the polybush like the originals do. Shame that I gave the old caps away - always wise after the event.
Anyone got a pair of dust caps knocking about ?
Anyway, I spent some time looking for a chunk of metal to make some load spreading spacers, but all I had in a suitable size was aluminium and I thought that that might not be strong enough. However, my top big, tabbed strut washers are looking a bit second-hand, so I’ve ordered a new pair. I then drilled the old ones out to use as load spreaders underneath.
A lathe does come in useful at times
![Image](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52151347738_64208ac92e_c.jpg)
My special washers, with an insert from a polybush.
![Image](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52151342796_7e9c1912cc_c.jpg)
I didn’t want to take the easy route and simply remove the strut top mount, as that would mess up my alignment. So, remove road wheel, undo the nut on the top of the strut, remove the front torsion adjuster bolt and compress the strut down, add spacer and reinsert strut in the polybush. Nothing torqued here.
![Image](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52151579119_ef306ddde6_c.jpg)
Then I added the big washer from the other side just to check, and look, no argument, all friends between the spacer and the polybush, even when not fully torqued down. Yes, I know that's not the correct locking tab washer, I just wanted to use a washer under the nut for testing. The strut also centred properly once the car was back done on its wheels.
![Image](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52150328077_05d9cc24ca_c.jpg)
So, repeat for other side, reset ride height and I’m now waiting for my new top washers (with new tab locking washers). Hopefully they will arrive on Monday, so that when I get back form sailing, I can fit the Tuesday morning before I go away sailing again. Once I get back from the Round the Island Race, I only have 2 days before I go to CLM, so I hope no new issuettes.
'79 Targa - restoration now mainly complete & being driven
viewtopic.php?f=28&t=59756
viewtopic.php?f=28&t=59756
-
- DDK 1st, 2nd and 3rd for me!
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Re: Wot, not another '79 Targa resto thread
Good update Peter - really impressed by the WUR adjustment mods - that’s the sort of job I would farm out to an expert!
The car sits really well - great pics at the Fairmile
All the best
Wayne
The car sits really well - great pics at the Fairmile
All the best
Wayne
93 964 C2
99 Boxster 2.5 > 2.7 hill climber
71 914/6 3.0 - gone
'You see Paul, hill climbing is like making love to a beautiful woman. You get your motor running, check your fluids, hang on tight and WHOA..30 seconds later it's all over!' Swiss Tony
99 Boxster 2.5 > 2.7 hill climber
71 914/6 3.0 - gone
'You see Paul, hill climbing is like making love to a beautiful woman. You get your motor running, check your fluids, hang on tight and WHOA..30 seconds later it's all over!' Swiss Tony
- PeterK
- DDK rules my life!
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Re: Wot, not another '79 Targa resto thread
Thanks Wayne
On the WUR, as usual, I’m still too stoopid to know that I can't do stuff, so I keep just cracking on![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
On the WUR, as usual, I’m still too stoopid to know that I can't do stuff, so I keep just cracking on
![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
'79 Targa - restoration now mainly complete & being driven
viewtopic.php?f=28&t=59756
viewtopic.php?f=28&t=59756
- PeterK
- DDK rules my life!
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Re: Wot, not another '79 Targa resto thread
Top washers fitted and surprise, surprise, no more banging from the front end over bumps
.
Back from Round the Island Race (don’t ask, chartered in boat was a disaster with bits breaking off left, right and centre) and a bit of a bullet dodged today. I had snuck into the garage while SWMBO was at the gym, to quickly re-check the cold CIS control pressures (was not comfortable with the temperature my IR meter gave last time I checked them – it was very hot outside, but not that hot in the engine bay) when I noticed fuel where fuel shouldn’t be
. Quickly checked all of my connections, but they were nowhere near the increasing pool of fuel. Looked around and noticed that there was a spray of fuel coming out of the pipe carrying fuel into the accumulator !
That could have been terminal if I had not noticed and driven to Classic Le Mans
Pressure checking abandoned, double ear pipe clamp removed, end of flexible pipe trimmed off and new, single ear (only type of the correct size that I had) fitted. All sound and leak-free, so back to fuel pressure. A slight adjustment was needed, which explains the slight hunting last time I started it cold.
I will do a test start later today or in the morning, but now time to start packing for CLM – yippee, can’t wait.
![cheers :cheers:](./images/smilies/icon_cheers.gif)
Back from Round the Island Race (don’t ask, chartered in boat was a disaster with bits breaking off left, right and centre) and a bit of a bullet dodged today. I had snuck into the garage while SWMBO was at the gym, to quickly re-check the cold CIS control pressures (was not comfortable with the temperature my IR meter gave last time I checked them – it was very hot outside, but not that hot in the engine bay) when I noticed fuel where fuel shouldn’t be
![Shocked :shock:](./images/smilies/icon_eek.gif)
That could have been terminal if I had not noticed and driven to Classic Le Mans
Pressure checking abandoned, double ear pipe clamp removed, end of flexible pipe trimmed off and new, single ear (only type of the correct size that I had) fitted. All sound and leak-free, so back to fuel pressure. A slight adjustment was needed, which explains the slight hunting last time I started it cold.
I will do a test start later today or in the morning, but now time to start packing for CLM – yippee, can’t wait.
'79 Targa - restoration now mainly complete & being driven
viewtopic.php?f=28&t=59756
viewtopic.php?f=28&t=59756
- PeterK
- DDK rules my life!
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Re: Wot, not another '79 Targa resto thread
![Image](http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220630/eb690a5e139af80e7d7bed6f032da694.jpg)
Made it. Nothing broke & nothing fell off
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
'79 Targa - restoration now mainly complete & being driven
viewtopic.php?f=28&t=59756
viewtopic.php?f=28&t=59756
Re: Wot, not another '79 Targa resto thread
This excellent pic tops off this resto thread rather nicely me thinks!! ![bounce :bounce:](./images/smilies/icon_bounce.gif)
![bounce :bounce:](./images/smilies/icon_bounce.gif)
Dean
1973T Targa MFI 334 met blu- under restoration https://www.ddk-online.com/phpBB2/viewt ... 28&t=67060
1980 924 Turbo, blu/grn tartan - restored
1973T Targa MFI 334 met blu- under restoration https://www.ddk-online.com/phpBB2/viewt ... 28&t=67060
1980 924 Turbo, blu/grn tartan - restored
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Re: Wot, not another '79 Targa resto thread
![Image](http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220701/d9722d191aacf36e0c8582c8e8fb08a5.jpeg)
Looking sweet
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
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Re: Wot, not another '79 Targa resto thread
Two owner restored cars together at CLM - doesn't get much better
1972 911T | 1994 993 Carrera | 1999 986 Boxster | 1990 T25 Camper
Vintage Heuer, Omega, Zenith and other vintage watches - http://www.heuerheritage.co.uk
Vintage Heuer, Omega, Zenith and other vintage watches - http://www.heuerheritage.co.uk
- PeterK
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Re: Wot, not another '79 Targa resto thread
…and made it back, also with nothing breaking or falling off. Car behaved itself, started quickly whether hot or cold, and did everything I asked of it. Well chuffed.
As a rough check, I seem to have managed about 24mpg, which is not bad as I was either stop/starting around Le Mans or blatting down the motorways.
I wanted to reset the front wings and raise the rear of the car slightly once back and now also have just a little list of additional minor things to look address and have covered about 1000 miles since the rebuild.
The targa top loos a little worse for wear, with the combination of 90mph and almost 30’C, as some of the glue has loosened. Where the outer cover is glued to the metal reinforcing plates we’re fine, but things are less good where it is vinyl to vinyl. I expected to need a further tweak, so I’m well pleased that I hadn’t glued in the headlining yet.
When heading to Arnage at night I discovered that
- the HRW switch doesn’t illuminate (and as a result, I also discovered that the front screen heating doesn’t work when you turn on the fog lights by mistake)
- sometimes the main beam comes on (with the dip staying lit), especially when just quickly flashing the indicators. Turning on and off the indicators (fully) again usually cleared it, but it made me reluctant to use the indicators when just switching lanes at night (can you tell that I have a BMW)
- The left gauge is brighter than the speedo, so I’ll check earth and power connections
When the roads were rougher, there was a slight vibration in the steering wheel if I took my hands off. Wriggling the wheel up and down shows only slight play, but hopefully a new bush will be winging its way to me soon.
Alex, the Garage Bitch is calling over tomorrow, so as soon as we’ve changed the brake fluid on his motorbike, we’ll make a start by resetting the rear ride height and doing a crude geo, before I take if for laser alignment again.
As a rough check, I seem to have managed about 24mpg, which is not bad as I was either stop/starting around Le Mans or blatting down the motorways.
I wanted to reset the front wings and raise the rear of the car slightly once back and now also have just a little list of additional minor things to look address and have covered about 1000 miles since the rebuild.
The targa top loos a little worse for wear, with the combination of 90mph and almost 30’C, as some of the glue has loosened. Where the outer cover is glued to the metal reinforcing plates we’re fine, but things are less good where it is vinyl to vinyl. I expected to need a further tweak, so I’m well pleased that I hadn’t glued in the headlining yet.
When heading to Arnage at night I discovered that
- the HRW switch doesn’t illuminate (and as a result, I also discovered that the front screen heating doesn’t work when you turn on the fog lights by mistake)
- sometimes the main beam comes on (with the dip staying lit), especially when just quickly flashing the indicators. Turning on and off the indicators (fully) again usually cleared it, but it made me reluctant to use the indicators when just switching lanes at night (can you tell that I have a BMW)
- The left gauge is brighter than the speedo, so I’ll check earth and power connections
When the roads were rougher, there was a slight vibration in the steering wheel if I took my hands off. Wriggling the wheel up and down shows only slight play, but hopefully a new bush will be winging its way to me soon.
Alex, the Garage Bitch is calling over tomorrow, so as soon as we’ve changed the brake fluid on his motorbike, we’ll make a start by resetting the rear ride height and doing a crude geo, before I take if for laser alignment again.
'79 Targa - restoration now mainly complete & being driven
viewtopic.php?f=28&t=59756
viewtopic.php?f=28&t=59756