Engine stand/yoke and other rebuild tools

[tim69s]

Hi all,
I’m soon to start an engine rebuild and as such need to gather all the special tools.
Would prefer to buy them than borrow.
Can collect if not too far from Hampshire.

Cheers
Tim


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[911hillclimber]

Suggest you say what engine, type and year!

[Nine One One]

This video is good of an engine rebuild.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IfaECePcgnQ

[911hillclimber]

Assuming it is a 911 air cooled engine, imho the first tool to buy is the Dempsey Engine re-build book.
It covers everything and also the tools needed for different year engines.

iirc there is a list of places to get the special tools.
You do not need a lot of special tools to do the job outside of a good tool box of spanners etc.

[tim69s]

Yes, sorry was a bit vague.
It’s a 2.7 CIS mag case, not sure of the exact year as there’s no engine no.
I have the Dempsey books and a good enough set of regular tools.
The main thing I need to get started is the yoke for an engine stand, if anyone has one they want to sell then please PM me.
Is there someone on here that makes them?

There’s a guy selling them on eBay for £70+13 postage. But it’s a four arm one and pictured with a VW engine on it, really want a stronger one made for 911s.

Cheers
Tim


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[Lightweight_911]

Mike Bainbridge makes the correct engine yoke.

You can use a generic engine stand.

I sold off all of my 911-specific engine rebuild tools recently but I would say that you're better off borrowing them unless you intend to rebuild another/other 911 engine(s) in the foreseeable future.

[smallspeed]

I think the one you're referring to is the one i just brought for my type 4 rebuild - its pretty substantial. Turned up quickly, fits really well - I can't comment on suitability for a 911 engine, but 911hillclimber might be able to as i believe it is shown in the advert with his fully dressed (3.2? ) engine hanging off it..

[PeterK]

My SC 3.0 is perching on one of the £70 eBay jobbies.
It needed a sight relieving to clear the oil cooler, but the engine has been sat on it for about a year now and is still up in the air.
Peter

[911hillclimber]

Yes, Peter is correct.
I've done 4 engine rebuilds using the yoke and it is strong enough, just needs a few tweeks to fit and use for a flat six.
I use a simple Machine Mart engine stand, no problems.

For the 2.7 engine I think you will need the crows foot spanner head for the cam shaft bolts, Snap On sell them.
Cam timing dti etc all can be bought off eBay or a nice autojumble.
Buy good small and larger torque wrenches, doubt just one will span the full range you need.

Correct feeler gauge for the tapper rockers is good to have.
I think that is about it. Others may add a few more.
Check the type911 web site for tools.
The Bainbridge engine yoke is a very nice thing to have.

[christaylorsound]

Another happy ebay £70 yoke user here for my 3.2 rebuild. Worked 100% fine until I installed the flywheel when the reference bolt just touched the yoke, and easy fix with a grinder. £70 well spent.

[tim69s]

Thanks all for the comments and advice.
I've taken the plunge and ordered the yoke from ebay.
For the cam socket and crow foot, I came across a thread on pelican where someone recommended this tool instead so I have invested. http://www.stomskiracing.com/collection ... m-nut-tool
It's about the same price as the cam socket and 46mm crows foot together from type911, but more on shipping as it's from the US.
Looks like a quality bit of kit that will make that job simple.

I have 2 snap-on torque wrenches (3/8 & 1/2), but as I bought them off ebay some years ago so might look to get them re-calibrated before re-assembly time. That's a while off yet anyway.

Gotta get the lump out and apart now to see how bad the damage is...!
Tim

[tim69s]

So the engine is out, but I’ve hit a problem with getting it mounted on the yoke.
The hard oil line that you can see running under the clutch housing in the picture below, fouls the yoke and stops me biting it up.
To remove the oil line it looks like I need to first remove the heat exchanger on the right.



Anyone had this problem and elegantly worked around it?




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[AndrewSlater]

There is a photo showing it fitting on p22 of my restoration thread, but that is with the spacer fitted to the yoke I used.

Which yoke did you get in the end and does it need an adapter plate?

Andrew

[wadsworthi]

I have a 2.7 engine on my engine stand at the moment. I don't recall any issues with the heat exchangers catching although my yoke was purchased from Pelican a number of years ago and bolts onto a standard Machine Mart stand. Sounds like your only solution is to remove heat exchangers before attaching. 911hillclimber should know if the heat exchangers fouled when he did his 3.2 engine although that is an early style oil pipe.

Good luck

Ian

[Gary71]

If you bought the VW yoke it needs to fit to the other side of the crankcase as it fouls the oil cooler. You then swap it over once you’ve stripped it to a block before splitting the halves.

I don’t remember any issues with the hard line on mine, but it was a couple of years ago!