What the HELL is going on with my Shifter!?!?!

Dyno Soar · Post by **Dyno Soar** » Mon May 23, 2005 4:54 pm

After getting the 911 back from the paintshop I have found that a new interesting problem has occured.

This is the shifter in place..

And this is how the shifter completly lifts out of its housing!!??

What the hell is going on? I am not sure how the guys the shop managed to break this. Basically it seems as if its had some braze or ali araldite type weld that holds the stic into this socket.

How am I gonna fix this one fellas?

Lightweight_911 · Post by **Lightweight_911** » Mon May 23, 2005 5:45 pm

Looks like a 'cheap' short-shift kit has been added. This involves cutting the original shift lever off & joining it to the new lower portion either using epoxy or a sleeve/grub screw arrangement.

Barry · Post by **Barry** » Mon May 23, 2005 9:02 pm

No problem, Alam. I would put the lever back in the right place, drill through the whole lot half way down the join with good pilot drill (2mm or so), and then 5mm (I'm assuming none of it is hardened: pretty unlikely). Clean the whole lot up with a solvent (carb cleaner, brake cleaner: whatever), mix some epoxy up. Lever out, smear epoxy round it, drop it in, and bolt up with a 5mm nut and bolt. Hacksaw and file end of bolt thread nice and neat, re-fit gaiter and forget!

Dyno Soar · Post by **Dyno Soar** » Mon May 23, 2005 9:44 pm

As always thanks for the advice chaps. Its making learning about the mechanicals of my 911 that much simpler.

Now what kind of epoxy should I get. Sounds silly but I have no idea which type or brand to buy. Will any motorfactors have the stuff that I need?

Barry · Post by **Barry** » Wed May 25, 2005 8:40 am

Depends what you can find: Araldite (either 1 hour or 24 hour types: usually the longer the setting time, the stronger the bond) is the easiest to find, although I use Devcon epoxys.

Really not mega critical: it's more important to get everything really clean, and leave the shift assembly alone for as long as possible after bonding to allow the epoxy to really go off. At least if you can get the bolt through, all of the actual location loads will be taken by that, and the side loads by the socket: so the epoxy is really just taking up the gaps, and stopping any 'wobble' developing ....

Good luck