Subaru engine conversion
Moderator: Bootsy
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Stevie B
- Married to the DDK
- Posts: 211
- Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2011 10:55 pm
- Location: Stafford uk
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Sam
- Nurse, I think I need some assistance
- Posts: 4312
- Joined: Fri Jul 02, 2010 8:56 am
- Location: Cambridge
It's a tricky thing to judge (and very tricky to get to on a Speedster rep!) unless you've waggled a few.
I'd suggest getting the car up in the air and thoroughly cleaning off the underside to be sure the leak is indeed coming from where the box meets the engine, it could be running to there from somewhere else.
If it is, you'll need to whip out the motor (four bolts and a few wires) and have a look at the aforementioned seal and wiggle the other end of the crank.
I'd suggest getting the car up in the air and thoroughly cleaning off the underside to be sure the leak is indeed coming from where the box meets the engine, it could be running to there from somewhere else.
If it is, you'll need to whip out the motor (four bolts and a few wires) and have a look at the aforementioned seal and wiggle the other end of the crank.
Secret £200k+ water cooled restomod project.
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Stevie B
- Married to the DDK
- Posts: 211
- Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2011 10:55 pm
- Location: Stafford uk
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Bruce M
- Me and DDK sitting in a tree! KISSING
- Posts: 2910
- Joined: Fri Aug 27, 2004 1:07 pm
Odds on it's the flywheel seal (has an o-ring and a large seal). Could be the plug at the end of the cam or gearbox input seal (oil stinks) but unlikely.
If the engine has only done 12k? Either the seal is a cheap one, the o-ring is missing, the seal was damaged when fitting (common), the case has a scratch on the sealing surface (common due to screwdriver removing old seal) or the flywheel has wear at seal contact point (wears the seal in no time).
Mind you... If it has taken 5+yrs to run up those 12k miles then the seal could have failed from natural causes. It doesn't appreciate occasional use as it has no direct oil feed.
Fitting is easy with the correct tools and some experience. The engine needs to come out (scary rather than difficult) . The flywheels needs locked and a 36mm socket/breaker bar/scaffolding pole to remove. A fat mate to stand on the engine is helpful. The best way to fit the seal is with the correct tool (not expensive) to press it into the case.
A vw specialist shouldn't charge much for that job.
If the engine has only done 12k? Either the seal is a cheap one, the o-ring is missing, the seal was damaged when fitting (common), the case has a scratch on the sealing surface (common due to screwdriver removing old seal) or the flywheel has wear at seal contact point (wears the seal in no time).
Mind you... If it has taken 5+yrs to run up those 12k miles then the seal could have failed from natural causes. It doesn't appreciate occasional use as it has no direct oil feed.
Fitting is easy with the correct tools and some experience. The engine needs to come out (scary rather than difficult) . The flywheels needs locked and a 36mm socket/breaker bar/scaffolding pole to remove. A fat mate to stand on the engine is helpful. The best way to fit the seal is with the correct tool (not expensive) to press it into the case.
A vw specialist shouldn't charge much for that job.

