..and so what is this weirdness inside my longitudinals?

Burma-Shave · Post by **Burma-Shave** » Sun Jul 01, 2007 8:35 pm

Spent a happy late afternoon lying on concrete gently poking at the little rust holes right in the middle of both my longs.

First, sand. Heaps of it. I'm guessing its from sandblasting from the original resto (over 20 years ago I think), but jeez there's so much of it. I wondered breifly if it was an anti-rust ploy, but surely sand would just hold dampness in? I want to get some nice runny oil in there after I patch them, so looks like I've some hoovering to do..

Next there are cyindrical thingmies covered in plastic foil like stuff. How odd. Are these supports for the heat tube? (Or just a forgotten stash of class A narcotics..)

40 scout · Post by **40 scout** » Sun Jul 01, 2007 10:48 pm

If they are carefully wrapped class A's you should be able to fund your resto - assuming there are buyers in your neck of the woods

The tubes you are looking at are the warm air ducts for getting the heat from the heat exchanges to the cabin.

I think your right - get as much of the sand out as poss - maybe an airline would be useful, then spray plenty of rust inhibitor in there - I bought some from Frost (Ditrinol I think) - its a very thin waxy spray that gets in every where and eventually sets - sprayed several coats in the bottoms of my doors - looks very good - although set its still soft and has 'travelled' well into the seams. They do a good, cheap 360' nozzle thingy too.

Sounds like you may have caught it before drastic action is necessary

Steve

Rustbucket · Post by **Rustbucket** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 9:48 am

mine had lots of sand too, but it come form FLorida way, and I think was on the beach a lot.............
They arent that hard to replace so dont worry !
I was talking to KK about longitudinals, the tubing inside is paper like on mine, and is quite important as a sound deadener too apparently !

Dan

58A - 71E · Post by **58A - 71E** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 11:31 am

Had my car blasted and then removed the rockers & longitudinals. Could not believe how much material was in there - i.e. rust and blasting media! I reckon I filled at least a gallon bucket with it.

Although the exterior of the longitudunals looked ok I decided to open them up anyway knowing how well they can hide rust. I was really surprised at how much corrosion there was inside - the large straight piece of heater pipe and supports were really corroded (I think people are now replacing with the early 911 heater tubes) and then where it bends into the frame (the smaller diameter pipe that then exits to the engine bay) had completely gone

The blasting revealed that someone had fibreglassed in the remains of the heater pipe into the frame and that the bottom 2inches of the frame was completely shot (under where the suspension arm attaches).

If you have holes on the exterior of the longitudinals I'd be wondering what's underneath. They are not hugely expensive (Stoddards have them at $59.95 each or if you're a bit more flush Roger Bray's has them at £66.83) and relatively easy to dismantle/fit
James

Burma-Shave · Post by **Burma-Shave** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 1:25 pm

Thanks! This is helpful feedback - I am increasingly thinking I will change the complete longitudinals so I can get good access to what lies beneath - and get some POR15 etc. in there.

Its a shame cos the holes are pretty small with good sound metal around them, and would be a patch job even within my hopeless capabilities - both look like they have formed where the long is close against the wrapped support - moisture must have sat there.

I'm going to use a local guy who is good with metalwork and has loads of VW resto experience, and along with the Jim Kellogg book should be easy to do well. Is there a risk the chassis will twist when a longitudinal is cut out during the process of replacement?

Rustbucket · Post by **Rustbucket** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 3:45 pm

Id be surprised if it could twist..............id keep doors shut etc but unless you remove the entire side- longitudinals with attached outer sill and door sills etc, the sheer bulk of the metal will keep the shape.
That resto book refers to cutting the metalwork off up between the outer sill and about 3 inches below the door sill......this makes sense but make sure there is enough room for your tools to reach in!. I had to replace everything so patching wasnt an option sadly on mine.