DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Helping a son with his 125 honda and the sump plug is well and truly stuck. On a warm engine I used a long bar and only managed to round the bolt. Sump plug ordered and I will use my stick bolt remover. Which cuts into the bolt to grip it. I've also ordered some freezing spray. Next attempt will be on the warm bike then freezing the bolt. Any other advice or tricks? I don't want to snap the head of the bolt off.

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So bolt is not stuck as suck, just the wrong socket on a long bar, which has rounded off the head of the bolt. Have you got a picture of what it looks like presently?

Sry no picture. Bike back with son. First I tried a shorter bar. Maybe that is the issue is I was used a 12 point socket. Which I stupidly thought gripped better. I should of tried with the 6 point socket. I then tried the longer bar and then an impact wrench. Which, in respect, wasn't a good idea.

https://west-equip.com/blog/post/6-poin ... pplication.

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If/when the bolt starts turning, don’t extract in one go. Move it a small degree, then rotate it in & out to give the threads in the crankcase the best chance of remaining in place.

If it won’t move, then alternatively and a tad more extreme, cut the head off the bolt to remove the load, then drill & extract

On the 2 Honda classic 175's I've restored, the sump bolt was tight.
The bolt head in quite recessed and even a well cranked ring spanner cannot do much for your task.

I used a 6 face socket intended for an air impact wrench, industrial quality, and a 700mm long breaker bar and short 1/2" socket extension. With a deep breath it came loose, but so very tight, done up with a rattle gun I think. No heat etc, just brute force (torque)

At least, if you have to drill it out and out to meet the case threads (good luck) then any steel swarf will be flushed out when you drill the smaller diameters, but getting the last bits out could be a challenge. I would allow the oil to drain, get the bad bolt parts out and flush the engine with paraffin a few times

More modern Honda engines may be a better/different design, google is your best friend foe accurate pictures.

Gook luck, I've been there etc..

On another note, I had the sump plug on my 911/3.2 crumble (it was cast iron) and had to MIG weld the spanner to it to crack it. The torque was applied using a trolley jack under the spanner and it cracked sharply with the weight of the car off the ground!

I definitely not looking to drill out! I would prefer to suction the oil out (which is what we did yesterday) and leave the sump plug in place.

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That will work!