Jacking points

Need some help with a technical problem - ask away and let's see if we can all help.

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haasad
Me and DDK sitting in a tree! KISSING
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Joined: Tue Oct 19, 2004 8:46 pm
Location: Dorchester

Jacking points

Post by haasad »

At last I've got time to do a bit more of my backdate project.

I welded up a frame on wheeels 2' 6" high to support the car while I strip off all the underseal the same as Nick Moss uses.

Two questions:

1 whats the best way to lift the car and motor high enough? I thought renting two "genie" lifts one front and one rear could be an option?

2 where is the underside strong enough to lift on? I've rebuilt all the factory jackpoints and sills etc etc but they are only intented to provide a feature for a limited lift to change a wheel, the height I need would make it too sketchy in terms of safety. The underneath of my car was badly dented from poor jacking at garages and it took ages to get it back even half right . I don't want to start that again!!
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willbrown
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Post by willbrown »

I've seen this method recommended quite a bit - as on the Pelican tech articles website: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticle ... drop-1.htm
'72 2.4S Targa
jtparr
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engine drop

Post by jtparr »

hasaad

when I did mine the other month I jacked the car up by placing the jack under the engine (as per pelican), once it was at max extenison I placed axle stands under the rear torsion bars
this as it turns out was no way high enough, so as i have a bunch of dense concrete blocks in the garage, I then placed the jack on 2 blocks orientated longitudinaly (on their side) centred on the engine, and started the process again, once the jack was at max extension I put blocks (on their side) under the axle stands

I did this 2 times

sounds a bit long winded but as I did not have one of the mega troley kacks i had no choice, it also worked a treat

note the back of the car has to go to almost waist height, helps if you take off the moulded plastic air intake shroud on the top

dropping the engine is the tricky part as it allways wanted to topple over, so I placed timber blocks, either side of the concrete blocks, under the heat exchangers (I am replacing them) lowerd the engine onto the blocks, so i could take the central concrete blocks out, doing the whole thing in reverse

that way the amount of wobble was allways minimised

again a bit long winded but as it was my first time i was crapping myself that the engine would wobble off and smash onto the garage floor


once the engine was dropped I have left the car on the axle stands (on a single block), so i have plently of room to remove the rear suspension and then start the striping of the undercoatings

hope that helps
haasad
Me and DDK sitting in a tree! KISSING
Posts: 2568
Joined: Tue Oct 19, 2004 8:46 pm
Location: Dorchester

jacking

Post by haasad »

Thanks guys,

I'm on it tonite (Ihope) with a combination of both methods. My trolley has got wheels so I can deliver the tub to my body shop leaving all the suspeders etc and motor / gearbox at home for some TLC.

That'll be another two years then!!!

andy
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