BIB5566

[911hillclimber]

You need a Haynes manual, though Gary is a good substitute and a loom whisperer!
Nice easy project. Is the paint good?

[PMNorris]

Mike - MFI set up already there .... all up and running !!

Looks like a great project. Do you also have the counterweighted crank for your engine?

Paul

[knapmann]

You need a Haynes manual, though Gary is a good substitute and a loom whisperer!
Nice easy project. Is the paint good?

Haynes is on its way!

Paint is ok, but has been scratched in lots of places over long term storage, needs lots of touching up and then a lot of polishing! I might take it to a detailing place to do this im not sure yet.

[knapmann]

Mike - MFI set up already there .... all up and running !!

Looks like a great project. Do you also have the counterweighted crank for your engine?

Paul

I plan to establish exactly what my engine consists of soon. I assume that I can identify a counter weighted crank through the oil pan...

[Lightweight_911]

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An addition to Gary's advice - if you warm the rubber multipin connector gently with a hot air gun it should soften the rubber sufficiently to make removal a bit easier ...

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[jwhillracer]

PPS - what is this and where does it belong?

It's something to do with the wipers. It's still connected to my loom, I'll have a look later.

It's a capacitor to suppress the radio interference from the wiper motor.

JW

[inaglasshouse]

Haynes manual is OK, but in my view the Bentley manual is much better and the original workshop manuals are vastly superior to either.
Or just search on here, and / or the pelicanparts forum - often the best info is from fellow DIY-ers!

You may find a colour wiring diagram useful...
https://members.rennlist.com/911pcars/WiringDiag.htm

[Cortina]

Neil - with the brakes , it may be worth just exercising the pistons hydraulically / G clamp for in again .... a few times , like about 6+. So long as pistons are not rusty you should be ok.
Why do you want to take out dash loom plugs ?
Wheel centres - hmm , I had similar on mine - got away with major clean up , think I varnished after (they don't like salt I suspect ?) - I may have a couple of used units off a later car IF they would fit ?? (I am not familiar with what changed !)

[Darren65]

IMO there's only one really important thing: Engine.
Needs MFI + CDI, needs S cams, needs to rev to 7200 rpm. That should give you an honest 180 bhp, and the characteristic revvy power delivery, which is enough to be fun. ....

....I'm with Richard in this respect.......it'll be fun getting all the cosmetic details as close as you can but not half as much fun as having sweet revving S-spec power plant and a car that drives, points and handles well

Great looking project, best of luck with the build

[knapmann]

Neil - with the brakes , it may be worth just exercising the pistons hydraulically / G clamp for in again .... a few times , like about 6+. So long as pistons are not rusty you should be ok.
Why do you want to take out dash loom plugs ?
Wheel centres - hmm , I had similar on mine - got away with major clean up , think I varnished after (they don't like salt I suspect ?) - I may have a couple of used units off a later car IF they would fit ?? (I am not familiar with what changed !)

Re brakes - yes I will just clean up the calipers externally and free them up, they look pretty good. I didnt realise there was no fluid in the system though, a lack of fluid may have made them more likely to seize up over the years, but I will soon find out.

Im taking the dash loom out to 1) clean it all up, 2) help access and clean up the under bonnet area, 3) learn what everything is and where it goes and how it works. Its quite a fun and inexpensive task from which I have learnt a lot already!

I suspect a good clean up of the hubs will suffice. I guess its hard to say at what point one becomes un-useable.

[knapmann]

Cracked on today.

Fuse boxes out


Dash loom and front lights loom out


Switches plugs, controls all out


Heater flap thingys (its a technical term) out, the under bonnet area is now totally empty


Pedals out



Struts out


Today I learned a lot about wiring, and even more about pedal assemblies. I also learned that my passenger side heater flap thingy is broken and needs replacing.

Questions from today

1) I assume that a T model didnt have an electric fuel pump? the wiring to my retro fitted pump was just loose wires running from the fuse box through the smugglers box to the pump (probably just a temporary arrangement). How are these wires routed to the pump on a factory S models? As I would like to try and route the wires neatly when I put the loom back in.

2) I have removed my struts, lower ball joints seem fine fortunately, they are stamped as Koni casings, but I suppose they could be anything inside. I read that koni dampers are adjustable but I cannot see any way of adjusting these. How do you adjust them? is there a recommended setting?

3) I'm used to my dampers springing back when released from compression, these just stay where they are after being compressed, is that right?

4) I think all/most of my bushes are original rubbers (I need to confirm this). What is the consensus on replacing these? Is it worth it? On my '02 I replaced everything with poly bushes...

5) What roll bar set up should an S spec car have? I have a rear roll bar of some description (its in the loft now), my front roll bar that goes through the body behind the tank is missing the arms and drop links... was this how T's came or has the it been half fitted retrospectively?? it seems odd for the factory to 80% install a roll bar but leave off the last little drop links to make it work. It would make more sense to just not put anything in at all...

6) I assume to change this front roll bar you have to take a wing off?? if so, it makes me think I need to know what if any roll bar I want to run before I put my wings back on...

thanks for everyones help and comments to date, much appreciated!

[911hillclimber]

A lot of questions as expected.
All my 30 years of experience is with my 1973 T hotrod, your car could be different:

The car should have an electric pump.
The Haynes book has all the wire diagrams you need so you can find the wires when you have it.

Koni damper inserts will be oil not gas. Gas damper extend themselves, oil has to be pulled/compressed manually.

Koni dampers are not all adjustable. Some are and you have to compress the piston down by hand and the turn the rod against a step in side, there is info on the net. I have mine at the rear on 1/2 way, good starting point imho. You need to remove one of the damper inserts from the strut and see what is stamped on the body. I think KONI have an office in the UK who could help.

Changing to poly bushes can lead to squeeky suspension over time.
iirc you can change/fit he front anti roll bar with everything in place. Some T's have the holes in the shell some do not. All missing parts are available with specialists or ebay.
Doubt the factory fitted parts of the system, all or nothing. Mine had nothing, but I converted front and rear to have them.

Re-bush the pedal shaft, kits available in metal and plastic.

If your model/year is different to what I has written, the Experts will be along asap!

[Lightweight_911]

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The '69 S models came with a 15mm arb F&R as std -optional on other models.

Sometimes T & E models came with just a front arb in which case a 13mm bar was fitted.

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Here's a diagram showing all the parts for a front arb fitment:



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[Cortina]

Fuel pumps : Both models are electric - but different pumps in different places .... may be the point.

I don't know where the S model in 2 litre form should have it's pump (73 was at rear left - rubber mounted on support bracket - 2 wire , 3 fuel connections)
I suspect T std pump was in engine bay and maybe only had inlet and outlet fuel connections ?

I think Neil's question is where should (injection compatible) pump be on S model and what is it's std wiring configuration ? (and fuel configuration while you are at it)

[Lightweight_911]

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Parts 25 & 26 in the diagram above are the blanking plates used when there was no arb fitted.

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