DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Yes, but it kept sticking to the inside of the B-post

Time for a proper update, rather than moaning about B-posts ...

N/S floor, inner and outer sills in, and A-post base repaired, B-post in:



This is the N/S/R inner wing area before repair: the top of the inner wing (where it meets the rear deck) was very thin and as its made up of two layers, it came out. Just as well as it happens, as it was worse than it looked.



After repair:



One door stripped out:



And frame repaired, ready for new skin (the other one was better, and just needed the frame repairs, so the skin has just been replaced on the bottom 2 inches: not something I would bother with again, new skin next time).



Curently waiting for the zinc primer to go off before fitting the skin, so using the wheel to start making a rear valence. They are not currently available, and are £140 when they are (and still not finished when they do arrive!) therefore good beginner's panel to make up.

BTW, as usual, other than main panels (floor, sills and B-posts) all repairs made from sheet.

But shouldn't there just be two, possibly three drain holes under that door?

Technically, I think that there was one really long, raggeddy/rusty edged one, but I thought these looked nicer

Thats a really nice job buddy. So did you replace the lower door frame first and then weld he lower skin on?

Cant wait to see the TR next week mate.

Yes, linish the old skin off, rebuild the frame, lightly peen on the new skin (skins aren't welded usually, apart from an occasional spot to stop the door twisting). Once the skin is lightly on, you re-hang the door to check for twists, if O.K. it comes off again and the skin fully pinched up. If you've got a twist, you keep the door on, and use strategically placed blocks to force it back into alignment: hence not fully pinching up the skin.

You often find that restorers get carried away when the skin goes on that they fully pinch it up, only to find that the door's been twisted when being rebuilt. If you then try to twist it at this stage, you end up rippling the brand new skin: doh

P.S. You will be able to witness at first hand that it's only the photo's that make it look any good ( ), see you next week .

Barry wrote: P.S. You will be able to witness at first hand that it's only the photo's that make it look any good ( ), see you next week .

Make sure you wrap up warm Alam .

Too right, if today's anything to go by, the house will be 8 degrees C.: my fingers are an attractive grey/blue as I type this: just going to scarper back into the (much warmer) workshop.

P.S. Ian: I thought you Northerners are meant to be tough: I reckon I should nominate you as Honary Southern Softy (And I lit the stove ).

Ian Donkin wrote:

Barry wrote: P.S. You will be able to witness at first hand that it's only the photo's that make it look any good ( ), see you next week .

Make sure you wrap up warm Alam .

Don't worry I'll be wearing full artic gear and have warned Darren to dress acordingly. I heard how good old Bazza almost done you in with the lack of heating at LaCasa Barry.

Time for an update. The bodywork has now, at last been completed: rust and panel-fit wise at least.

All four wings have been lengthened to tighten the door gaps to 2/3rds original: I suspect that they used to be so wide to disguise production inaccuracies. Certainly even the press photo's of the cars show differences.

All of the filling has been done: no great depth, but plenty of breadth: mainly due to poor panel quality, and the fact that the car has a mixture of forty year old repaired panels, thirty year old patttern parts, and some new parts that don't fit anyway . They are so bad, I actually made the rear valence from scratch (using the wheel), rather than pay £150 for one that was wrong.

Anyway, the inner shell is now completely painted (although the deck tops will be flatted again when the car is being fitted up, as they could do with some paint faults rectifying and re-painting.

The shell is back on the chassis, although not fully bolted down yet: that can wait until the fit-up is started. BTW the angle iron in the pictures is to brace the (flexible) shell when lifting it on/off the chassis. Many a TR owner has completed a full body restoration, and then distorted their work when lifting it .

BTW, the engine bay took nearly four full days of prep. as it was so pitted and generally scabby. I actually have rubbed the skin on my fingers so much they started to crack and bleed .

Here's the pics:

Bare metal, panels gapped (note the DIY rear valence):



Inner painting completed, shell back on chassis:



Engine bay:



If nothing else, it does look better than this (last Autumn):

You're a quick worker Barry - top stuff.

Barry wrote:I actually made the rear valence from scratch (using the wheel), rather than pay £150 for one that was wrong.

I've seen the work on this rear valence and it's a superb bit of craftmanship fom Barry.

btw Barry i can't believe you got to this paint stage from what i saw on wednesday, top work

I know where to go when I decide to get my 911 done properly

Great work Barry. Time that 911 project arrived isn't it? You'll be bored soon

Looking very very good Barry top marks . Regards Tim

Nice job Barry I bet the filler in that is minimal. A true craftsman.