T.R.:Written off 1983, Returned to the road 2006
Moderator: Bootsy
-
Barry
- Nurse, I think I need some assistance
- Posts: 4322
- Joined: Tue Aug 24, 2004 8:50 pm
- Location: East Sussex
Time for a proper update, rather than moaning about B-posts ...
N/S floor, inner and outer sills in, and A-post base repaired, B-post in:

This is the N/S/R inner wing area before repair: the top of the inner wing (where it meets the rear deck) was very thin and as its made up of two layers, it came out. Just as well as it happens, as it was worse than it looked.

After repair:

One door stripped out:

And frame repaired, ready for new skin (the other one was better, and just needed the frame repairs, so the skin has just been replaced on the bottom 2 inches: not something I would bother with again, new skin next time).

Curently waiting for the zinc primer to go off before fitting the skin, so using the wheel to start making a rear valence. They are not currently available, and are £140 when they are (and still not finished when they do arrive!) therefore good beginner's panel to make up.
BTW, as usual, other than main panels (floor, sills and B-posts) all repairs made from sheet.
N/S floor, inner and outer sills in, and A-post base repaired, B-post in:

This is the N/S/R inner wing area before repair: the top of the inner wing (where it meets the rear deck) was very thin and as its made up of two layers, it came out. Just as well as it happens, as it was worse than it looked.

After repair:

One door stripped out:

And frame repaired, ready for new skin (the other one was better, and just needed the frame repairs, so the skin has just been replaced on the bottom 2 inches: not something I would bother with again, new skin next time).

Curently waiting for the zinc primer to go off before fitting the skin, so using the wheel to start making a rear valence. They are not currently available, and are £140 when they are (and still not finished when they do arrive!) therefore good beginner's panel to make up.
BTW, as usual, other than main panels (floor, sills and B-posts) all repairs made from sheet.
DDK Member1243 07741 273865. Home of the RY Austin 7 Trophy's and Austin Single Seat Racers
-
Ian Donkin
- DDK rules my life!
- Posts: 1306
- Joined: Wed Sep 29, 2004 9:07 pm
- Location: A Southern Northerner
-
Barry
- Nurse, I think I need some assistance
- Posts: 4322
- Joined: Tue Aug 24, 2004 8:50 pm
- Location: East Sussex
-
Dyno Soar
- I luv DDK!
- Posts: 994
- Joined: Fri Dec 19, 2003 10:16 am
- Location: London, England
-
Barry
- Nurse, I think I need some assistance
- Posts: 4322
- Joined: Tue Aug 24, 2004 8:50 pm
- Location: East Sussex
Yes, linish the old skin off, rebuild the frame, lightly peen on the new skin (skins aren't welded usually, apart from an occasional spot to stop the door twisting). Once the skin is lightly on, you re-hang the door to check for twists, if O.K. it comes off again and the skin fully pinched up. If you've got a twist, you keep the door on, and use strategically placed blocks to force it back into alignment: hence not fully pinching up the skin.
You often find that restorers get carried away when the skin goes on that they fully pinch it up, only to find that the door's been twisted when being rebuilt. If you then try to twist it at this stage, you end up rippling the brand new skin: doh
P.S. You will be able to witness at first hand that it's only the photo's that make it look any good (
), see you next week
.
You often find that restorers get carried away when the skin goes on that they fully pinch it up, only to find that the door's been twisted when being rebuilt. If you then try to twist it at this stage, you end up rippling the brand new skin: doh
P.S. You will be able to witness at first hand that it's only the photo's that make it look any good (
DDK Member1243 07741 273865. Home of the RY Austin 7 Trophy's and Austin Single Seat Racers
-
Ian Donkin
- DDK rules my life!
- Posts: 1306
- Joined: Wed Sep 29, 2004 9:07 pm
- Location: A Southern Northerner
Make sure you wrap up warm AlamBarry wrote: P.S. You will be able to witness at first hand that it's only the photo's that make it look any good (), see you next week
.
2006 RHD 997 Carrera (but DDK remains in my heart - also now no longer)
1972 LHD 2.4T with '73 2.4T CIS motor - gone to a new DDK home
1994 RHD 993 Carrera - gone!
1968 LHD 911L - was the Wife's but now in new hands
#1252
1972 LHD 2.4T with '73 2.4T CIS motor - gone to a new DDK home
1994 RHD 993 Carrera - gone!
1968 LHD 911L - was the Wife's but now in new hands
#1252
-
Barry
- Nurse, I think I need some assistance
- Posts: 4322
- Joined: Tue Aug 24, 2004 8:50 pm
- Location: East Sussex
Too right, if today's anything to go by, the house will be 8 degrees C.: my fingers are an attractive grey/blue as I type this: just going to scarper back into the (much warmer) workshop.
P.S. Ian: I thought you Northerners are meant to be tough: I reckon I should nominate you as Honary Southern Softy
(And I lit the stove
). 
P.S. Ian: I thought you Northerners are meant to be tough: I reckon I should nominate you as Honary Southern Softy
DDK Member1243 07741 273865. Home of the RY Austin 7 Trophy's and Austin Single Seat Racers
-
Dyno Soar
- I luv DDK!
- Posts: 994
- Joined: Fri Dec 19, 2003 10:16 am
- Location: London, England
Don't worry I'll be wearing full artic gear and have warned Darren to dress acordingly. I heard how good old Bazza almost done you in with the lack of heating at LaCasa Barry.Ian Donkin wrote:Make sure you wrap up warm AlamBarry wrote: P.S. You will be able to witness at first hand that it's only the photo's that make it look any good (), see you next week
.
.
Alam
77' 911 Carerra 3.0 'The Beast'
58' 356-A Coupe
55' Chevy
51' AP17
77' 911 Carerra 3.0 'The Beast'
58' 356-A Coupe
55' Chevy
51' AP17
-
Barry
- Nurse, I think I need some assistance
- Posts: 4322
- Joined: Tue Aug 24, 2004 8:50 pm
- Location: East Sussex
Time for an update. The bodywork has now, at last been completed: rust and panel-fit wise at least.
All four wings have been lengthened to tighten the door gaps to 2/3rds original: I suspect that they used to be so wide to disguise production inaccuracies. Certainly even the press photo's of the cars show differences.
All of the filling has been done: no great depth, but plenty of breadth: mainly due to poor panel quality, and the fact that the car has a mixture of forty year old repaired panels, thirty year old patttern parts, and some new parts that don't fit anyway
. They are so bad, I actually made the rear valence from scratch (using the wheel), rather than pay £150 for one that was wrong.
Anyway, the inner shell is now completely painted (although the deck tops will be flatted again when the car is being fitted up, as they could do with some paint faults rectifying and re-painting.
The shell is back on the chassis, although not fully bolted down yet: that can wait until the fit-up is started. BTW the angle iron in the pictures is to brace the (flexible) shell when lifting it on/off the chassis. Many a TR owner has completed a full body restoration, and then distorted their work when lifting it
.
BTW, the engine bay took nearly four full days of prep. as it was so pitted and generally scabby. I actually have rubbed the skin on my fingers so much they started to crack and bleed
.
Here's the pics:
Bare metal, panels gapped (note the DIY rear valence):

Inner painting completed, shell back on chassis:

Engine bay:

If nothing else, it does look better than this (last Autumn):

All four wings have been lengthened to tighten the door gaps to 2/3rds original: I suspect that they used to be so wide to disguise production inaccuracies. Certainly even the press photo's of the cars show differences.
All of the filling has been done: no great depth, but plenty of breadth: mainly due to poor panel quality, and the fact that the car has a mixture of forty year old repaired panels, thirty year old patttern parts, and some new parts that don't fit anyway
Anyway, the inner shell is now completely painted (although the deck tops will be flatted again when the car is being fitted up, as they could do with some paint faults rectifying and re-painting.
The shell is back on the chassis, although not fully bolted down yet: that can wait until the fit-up is started. BTW the angle iron in the pictures is to brace the (flexible) shell when lifting it on/off the chassis. Many a TR owner has completed a full body restoration, and then distorted their work when lifting it
BTW, the engine bay took nearly four full days of prep. as it was so pitted and generally scabby. I actually have rubbed the skin on my fingers so much they started to crack and bleed
Here's the pics:
Bare metal, panels gapped (note the DIY rear valence):

Inner painting completed, shell back on chassis:

Engine bay:

If nothing else, it does look better than this (last Autumn):

DDK Member1243 07741 273865. Home of the RY Austin 7 Trophy's and Austin Single Seat Racers
- Bootsy
- Site admin and the Boss
- Posts: 25712
- Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2003 6:09 pm
- Location: Norwich
- Contact:
You're a quick worker Barry - top stuff.
1972 911T | 1994 993 Carrera | 1999 986 Boxster |
Vintage Heuer, Omega, Zenith and other vintage watches - http://www.heuerheritage.co.uk
Vintage Heuer, Omega, Zenith and other vintage watches - http://www.heuerheritage.co.uk
-
Gilbert '71 T
- I luv DDK!
- Posts: 894
- Joined: Sun Oct 03, 2004 9:12 am
- Location: N London
I've seen the work on this rear valence and it's a superb bit of craftmanship fom Barry.Barry wrote:I actually made the rear valence from scratch (using the wheel), rather than pay £150 for one that was wrong.
btw Barry i can't believe you got to this paint stage from what i saw on wednesday, top work
Darren
71 911T with C3 motor
71 911T with C3 motor
-
Gary71
- Nurse, I think I need some assistance
- Posts: 10717
- Joined: Wed Mar 31, 2004 1:27 pm
- Location: Cheshire
- Contact:

