DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

All i would suggest is a decent cover for your fuse box. They are normally situated under the bonnet below the top seal. Not good if the seal is not perfect as when you clean the car/get rained on the fuse box can get wet.

Speaking from experience rather than expertise.

Voltage stabiliser is for the temp and fuel gauge. Your power feed to the gauges goes through the V/ stabiliser then to the gauges.
Nothing to do with the Dynamo.

really? I assumed it was something to do with the dynamo. I don't have one!

Better buy one I guess

Just check with your instrument (temp & fuel) supplier. Some are built not to use the voltage stabiliser and have a direct current, others are built to use the V/stabilser??

hmm I think mine are vintage speedster clocks. Better drop them an email. thanks

^ Mine too. Would appreciate you posting your findings, they never answer my emails.

useful response eh.....

I'm sorry but I do not know.
Kirk

In a message dated 4/5/2011 10:48:02 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, bonerp@hotmail.co.uk writes:
Hi
I have your dials and gauges but I am not sure whether they have built in voltage stabilizers. Can you confirm please?

thanks

Paul



...so on this basis is it worth buying a couple of these and applying them across the power for each dial?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SOLID-STATE-VOLTA ... 560wt_1054

I found German and Swedish sell the beetle version for about £28, and you only need one. I guess it can't hurt. If it stabilizes the voltage, the gauge should still work even if it has an internal unit, as it will be getting constant voltage with nothing further to do?

Ok so you need to know if you need a voltage stabiliser??

1st point is if you connect your fuel or temp without a V/s for more than a few seconds it will start to burn out the element inside the gauge out after about 10 seconds it will start to smoke. It does only take a second to decide whether or not you need it so here goes.

Connect up the fuel gauge sender + & - and set to empty. Now earth the fuel gauge, then connect up the + with the ignition on. If the gauge reads empty it runs on a 12v direct. Move the sender to full and the gauge will follow. Now if the gauge shoots straight to full when you connect the + when the sender is set to empty then disconnect it as it will require a v/s. Again do this with the sender connected and set to empty on both tests to start with.

If i remember rightly the fuel gauge works back to front so when it shows full its empty
So you have to bend the vw sender to suit .

Suppose it down to the clock manufactures and what works best for your own situation to determine if a v/s is needed.

stupid question and I'm sure its negative but - are VW's negative earth or positive earth?

Negative earth, Yes.
I fitted the pilgrim loom this weekend, and connected up the front and rear sections, which I guess is the easy bit. Dashboard area next weekend, once I have got my head around where these extra fuses and relays go.

Sorry to hi jack your thread, but does anyone know how I test an ignition switch to tell which terminals do what? I have an original 356 ignition key switch which I wad hoping to use but it hass eleven terminals on the back! I guess it was originally 6v also, anyone know if they run 12volts ok? Only reason I want to use it is that I have original door handles too and the keys all match.

lol I reckon we must be very similar in the build - I just tidied up my front and rear wiring this weekend!! And finally bled the brakes. Still need to adjust the rear shoes and handbrake though.

This week I am going to try to get the fuel tank and fittings in, then attempt to start the engine for the first time in next week or 2.

I am quite scared looking at the mess for the dash! I fitted extra relays etc before I put the loom in. The Pilgrim wiring and diagrams are rubbish. I have thick brown leads for dynamo as well as alternator! What do I do with those? Just insulate and tie them out of the way?

I also seem to have a temp sensor lead....! Where do I put that to? I wondered whether the oil pressure sensor was also for engine temp but there is only one connector.

I have not worked out that dynamo and alternator wiring yet either. They seem to have wiring for both in the loom. I got a bit concerned looking at it today, although I am not a qualified electrician I have wired a couple of ki cars before, but they have been 'plug and play'

When looking at the diagram it appears to me that, for example, if there is a fault with the coil there is no fuse to blow. In this case will this result in burnt wiring?

Bit of a pain, but would anyone mind scribbling on this in Photoshop advising where to stick the extra fuses and relays to stay safe? There is a pint in it for you at the first show I manage to get to with it finished