DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Jenolite is a rust remover/phosphater, and the best way to use it is as follows.

remove as much rust as possible by sanding, or with a pointed die grinder

soak the rust with jenolite, not allowing it to dry out, for several hours, Untill all the rust has gone and you are left with clean steel

Dry the surace with a clean cloth, and any dried out jenolite can be removed with a another coat of the stuff, followed by drying it again,

Once dry if you are going to use filler, you will need to sand the surface to remove the phosphate layer before continuing, otherwise the surface is ready for etch priming, or e coating

I use a industrial product similar to jenolite for derusting complete bodyshells, and i am sure others of you use different products, with great success. However I dont like the sulphuric acid dipping tank method, as this acd gets trapped in the seams and it will blead with rust.

Good stuff.

Robmag posted a link to a description of someone who tried putting normal filler over epoxy.

Big problems with his methods make the test unhelpful IMHO>

Firstly, epoxy needs serious degreasing for optimum adhesion..he did none..

I wash the metal with thinners, the scrub with hot industruial detergent..

Then dry and immediately apply the epoxy..then using the epoxy as a lube, abrade with 120 grit..this exposes fresh steel to the epoxy without oxygen..and is the key to perfect bonding..

Finally, polyseter will not stick to epoxy at all well...vice versa is fine..

But having started with epoxy as the base, it makers sense to use it for the filler too..we can use light fillers like Q0celles, glass bubbles etc..and can modify with silical etc to make the otpmum filler for the application..and its very waterproof..unlike any polyester..

But as I said, no-one in the motrbody world I have found uses it..

It is used a lot on boats..steel hulls or not..

Kind regards
David