I'm interested in details too - flying to edinburgh tomorrow am too until tuesday so could arrange a look.Johnny Graham wrote:964 = 8k
m7lsy at yahoo dot co dot uk with more details - number
In the mood for a 964 project, would you do it?
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Johnny Graham
- DDK addict
- Posts: 136
- Joined: Sun Jan 03, 2010 8:26 pm
- Location: Fife, Scotland
If! Couldnt part with the faithful old thing I'm afraid. It'd be like shooting your favourite hound when he got a bit blind and smelly..Johnny Graham wrote: If I was to sell I'd probably be looking for about 8k.
Cheers, Johnny
'89 Carrera 4, '65 356C, '99 Maserati 3200GT
Winter hack: '92 Hilux Smurf
Wife's: '99 E320CDI estate
Awaiting fettlement: '83 w123 280E, '84 2CV6.
'89 Carrera 4, '65 356C, '99 Maserati 3200GT
Winter hack: '92 Hilux Smurf
Wife's: '99 E320CDI estate
Awaiting fettlement: '83 w123 280E, '84 2CV6.
Thanks very much Ian. That's the other thing with a project...huge cost overrunIanMcLeod wrote:Graham.
If you are thinking of going this route give Chris a call at GCR as he is doing pretty much your list in the first post to my old 964. I sold it a couple of months ago to a friend of mine at near 120K miles and it's having a full rebuild. Engine, KW suspension, LWT flywheel, etc. He'll be able to give you exact costs as he's priced it all up recently. Some of your figures might be a bit light.
Ian.
I'll give him a shout.
Graham
Just done something similar as you are describing. Bought what you would generally describe as being quite a tidy 964 C4, not immaculate but certainly presentable.
Already had top end rebuild and motor is VERY strong. Lightweight interior already fitted. Also car is original UK non-sunroof, non-a/c which is unusual and fitted my objective.
We've done or rather Steve at Jaz in Wembley has :
i) ditched the tired original suspension and replaced with Bilstein PSS10
ii) binned front and rear gearbox, replaced with 964 RS LSD box
iii). FVD front and rear camber plate set
iv). 964 RS ARB's
and a few other things to tighten the suspension up and bypass the C4 brain.
It's a great car to drive hard on the circuit.
Don't discount a C4 is all I would say.
Already had top end rebuild and motor is VERY strong. Lightweight interior already fitted. Also car is original UK non-sunroof, non-a/c which is unusual and fitted my objective.
We've done or rather Steve at Jaz in Wembley has :
i) ditched the tired original suspension and replaced with Bilstein PSS10
ii) binned front and rear gearbox, replaced with 964 RS LSD box
iii). FVD front and rear camber plate set
iv). 964 RS ARB's
and a few other things to tighten the suspension up and bypass the C4 brain.
It's a great car to drive hard on the circuit.
Don't discount a C4 is all I would say.
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Steve Brookes
- DDK Newbie
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Mon Feb 15, 2010 12:58 pm
Sounds like you've done a cracking job on Rob Hounslow's old car. I've had the pleasure of few trips around the track in the passenger seat with Rob. It was pretty good then. It will only be better now.jimmysav wrote:Just done something similar as you are describing. Bought what you would generally describe as being quite a tidy 964 C4, not immaculate but certainly presentable.
Already had top end rebuild and motor is VERY strong. Lightweight interior already fitted. Also car is original UK non-sunroof, non-a/c which is unusual and fitted my objective.
We've done or rather Steve at Jaz in Wembley has :
i) ditched the tired original suspension and replaced with Bilstein PSS10
ii) binned front and rear gearbox, replaced with 964 RS LSD box
iii). FVD front and rear camber plate set
iv). 964 RS ARB's
and a few other things to tighten the suspension up and bypass the C4 brain.
It's a great car to drive hard on the circuit.
Don't discount a C4 is all I would say.
964 C2 in GP white - track biased but still nice on the road.
I love em
mine had 165k miles on it
ran fine just a bit smokey needed valve guides
I'd buy as cheap a base car as long as it didn't need bodywork past paint
7k for the engine is a big budget when 4 would get you a top end
stick a lwf and clutch on it cat cup n remap and you would see 280 plus no doubt.
Instead of chucking more money at mini
al gains I'd strip the interior weight to rs type spec
less is more!
They are ace cars . Get one with cup 1 s thought IMHO
mine had 165k miles on it
ran fine just a bit smokey needed valve guides
I'd buy as cheap a base car as long as it didn't need bodywork past paint
7k for the engine is a big budget when 4 would get you a top end
stick a lwf and clutch on it cat cup n remap and you would see 280 plus no doubt.
Instead of chucking more money at mini
al gains I'd strip the interior weight to rs type spec
less is more!
They are ace cars . Get one with cup 1 s thought IMHO
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Steve Brookes
- DDK Newbie
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Mon Feb 15, 2010 12:58 pm
I really, really hope you're right on that one because mine's got similar mileage on it and went in today for its top end plus oil leaks. I'm now bracing myself to hear the worst.red964 wrote:I love em
mine had 165k miles on it
ran fine just a bit smokey needed valve guides
I'd buy as cheap a base car as long as it didn't need bodywork past paint
7k for the engine is a big budget when 4 would get you a top end
964 C2 in GP white - track biased but still nice on the road.
hi
cant say they are all like mine was..
I saw loads come in for top ends right across the mileage range.
It really does all come down to past servicing and useage.
Short Journeys take their toll.
Change the oil every 6 months, use the car hard and you are laughing.
I was fortunate the previous owner had changed the oil every 6 months from about 60k miles and racked up 100k within 5 years - new tyres and clutches 3 times a year aswell. Basically he had hammered it and changed the oil.
Id say its usual for a 964 to require a couple of pieces of tinware.
For 1 or 2 cams to show signs of wear or even be a little nibbled.
On the bottom end they are usually fine, at 120k they normally look like they would easily go to 250k. However its not unusual for there to be more wear around the no3 cyl big end / small end (must be something to do with the oil coverage here) - even so, the orginal bottom end will likely outlast the new top end again. - If your has good servicing then there shouldnt be anything to worry about.
Even on the guides side its normally only the exhaust guides that show significant wear - you could leave the intake guides but for most being apart and done at the same time makes sense.
If yours is the early engine without the head seal your options are for maching flat and rebuild as it left the factory (well it was good for lots of miles to start with) - or you can buy B&p with the ring in and machine the heads £££ - or you can have the ring machined into your existing b&p.
all depends on the state of the barrells - again, most I saw just needed new rings and back out they went/
Whilst you are throwing money at it - have your injectors cleaned - by this time/age the spray patterns are likely all over the place.
cant say they are all like mine was..
I saw loads come in for top ends right across the mileage range.
It really does all come down to past servicing and useage.
Short Journeys take their toll.
Change the oil every 6 months, use the car hard and you are laughing.
I was fortunate the previous owner had changed the oil every 6 months from about 60k miles and racked up 100k within 5 years - new tyres and clutches 3 times a year aswell. Basically he had hammered it and changed the oil.
Id say its usual for a 964 to require a couple of pieces of tinware.
For 1 or 2 cams to show signs of wear or even be a little nibbled.
On the bottom end they are usually fine, at 120k they normally look like they would easily go to 250k. However its not unusual for there to be more wear around the no3 cyl big end / small end (must be something to do with the oil coverage here) - even so, the orginal bottom end will likely outlast the new top end again. - If your has good servicing then there shouldnt be anything to worry about.
Even on the guides side its normally only the exhaust guides that show significant wear - you could leave the intake guides but for most being apart and done at the same time makes sense.
If yours is the early engine without the head seal your options are for maching flat and rebuild as it left the factory (well it was good for lots of miles to start with) - or you can buy B&p with the ring in and machine the heads £££ - or you can have the ring machined into your existing b&p.
all depends on the state of the barrells - again, most I saw just needed new rings and back out they went/
Whilst you are throwing money at it - have your injectors cleaned - by this time/age the spray patterns are likely all over the place.