DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

have i got this seal on the wrong way round?
as you can see, the lid doesn't reach the seal

thanks...as changing the master cyl is such an unpleasant job, i'm going to try pressure bleeding first...anyone recommend any particular one?

so, i have filled up the system and bled the brakes on my '69 coupe, exactly as per the orange book, with the wife merrily pumping away, and appeared to get good fluid out of each bleed screw with no bubbles but the pedal, whilst you initially get resistance half way down, with pressure maintained, ...

i'd just give the outside a thin coat of VHT black spray, better heat rejection

you can get the CSP thin composite exhaust gaskets over here....i used them with an ordinary gasket (not sure why!) and has sealed fine.....use the copper-flashed steel nuts if you can, flanged if you can find them/get them on

i've gone for 123 Tune + distributor, Flamethrower coil, uprated VW-type leads/plug caps and seems to be working well.....it means you can set the advance curve to any settings you like....i can't believe you guys are still struggling with points

thanks guys.....i'll be at sub 3Krpm most of the time so28 venturi's should be ok for me.....thanks Neil, hadn't thought of PO's drilling out jets, i guess there must be some sort of jet gauges available.....do the sizes denote hole size? e.g. 200 is 2mm?

i know this has been discussed many times but i can't seem to find recommendations for UK petrol and for the following set-up: Engine is 1720, standard cam and i want to keep the 28 venturi. i will be getting a rolling road session but just don't want to damage the engine getting there. So, any succ...

hi Andrew, the air in the chamber problem occurs when measuring the effective head volume by filling up via the plug hole....please let us know how you measure the dome volume, i hear it's not easy

Andrew, there's a few other things to be aware of, see

https://www.912bbs.org/forum/threads/en ... hts.57422/

some of them are quite easily overlooked

hi Andrew, i had the cyl's checked by my machinist, he set them on a surface plate with distance blocks so the lower ledge rests on them....then rest a dial gauge on the top sealing surface and rotate the cyl slowly....any runout will be shown on the dial gauge....i'm not absolutely sure of the tole...

Andrew, i went with exactly the same p&c's as you, the rings did need very little gapping, hardly anything, although i took the sharpness off the open ends as well....please beware of the cylinders, mine had a run-out on the top sealing surface and i had to have them machined true all round to t...

Timo, a filter is equivalent in pressure drop terms, to quite a bit of plain oil line.....you are probably right, it will be a very short delay, but that delay is important.....if modern cars have the same arrangement, i might be convinced

ok, look at it this way......if there was a huge obstruction or length of pipe before the oil reaching the galleries, there would be a definite length of time before full oil pressure was achieved at he galleries. Although oil is incompressible, it will still take time for the pressure to build up a...

Rob, at start up there will be a pressure gradient from immediately downstream of the pump, say 100 psi to atmospheric at the journals, this pressure gradient only takes a few seconds to equalise but it takes slightly longer if there are obstructions on the way, e.g. a filter. With the old-timer met...